http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Engine-And-Transmission/Radiator-Pressure-Tester-Kit/8503039.p

It's a nice tool to have.

They have them in stock, but may be under a different number.

Also of note on these testers is the fact that they are great purging tools for those later model engines that always seem to have that troublesome air bleeding issue. I know the LT1 on my Buick Roadmaster was a bear to bleed after changing water pumps, the pressure tester helps to push the antifreeze to these dry spots, also used them lots in farm tractor applications where the heater core was in the top of the tractor cab, we would install block heaters as all of the European built New Holland equipment never had a block heater option on the line ( go figure?) as we would always have a bitch of a time getting full flow on the cooling system afterward, snap a little pressure on the line,crack the factory bleeder high in the cab and go for coffee break and presto..all was good!

A friend bought this kit. Seemed pretty good. Too bad the shipping is a killer.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Auto-Cooling-System-Radiator-Color-Cap-Pressure-Tester-Kit-Pump-Gauge-Adapters-/171304991517?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item27e292bb1d&_uhb=1

Keeper wrote:

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I started looking around, ebay has a few, amazon.ca had some better deals.

I will probably order one. I was hoping to test it prior to reinstalling it as I would rather fix/test it BEFORE its back in the car.

-- Edited by Keeper on Monday 21st of April 2014 09:30:06 PM

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 I have a tester you can borrow. It's the type that fits onto the filler neck, where the rad cap screws onto.

hemi43 wrote:

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A friend bought this kit. Seemed pretty good. Too bad the shipping is a killer.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Auto-Cooling-System-Radiator-Color-Cap-Pressure-Tester-Kit-Pump-Gauge-Adapters-/171304991517?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item27e292bb1d&_uhb=1

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 Free shipping in the lower 48 states if you use the U.S. Address box on Witmer Rd it is only 5 mins from the Lewiston border. But don't go over on long weekends, the delay is awful.

I've heard you can use an inner tube from a tire. Cut the tube, hose clamp the tube ends over your rad hose fittings, then pump air into the rad through the tire valve on the tube.

Ever seen an bike inner tube , that is not inside a tire, pumped up  to 16psi?

 

Make sure you video it if you try that method.

DaveM wrote:

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Ever seen an bike inner tube , that is not inside a tire, pumped up  to 16psi?

 

Make sure you video it if you try that method.

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 believe it or not it does not require a lot of pressure.your right they do get pretty distorted if pressure to high but works just makes you go holy s,.t

DaveM wrote:

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Ever seen an bike inner tube , that is not inside a tire, pumped up  to 16psi?

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I don't remember if I've ever used this method before, but I think a person could add just enough air to inflate the inner tube, wrap the tube with a layer or two (or three or four) of duct tape to prevent ballooning, then bring the pressure up.

 

As far as finding a tank large enough to accept a rad, what about reversing and just putting water in the rad then pressurizing it.  Instead of looking for air bubbles, you'd be looking for the drip/wet spot (or maybe bubbles if you're using soapy water).

 

 

 

I have capped one end of a heater core then cobbled up something that allowed me to install an air tool fitting on the other end.  Added pressure using my compressor and dropped the core in a large bucket.  Spotted the leak instantly.  I don't know why you couldn't do the same thing to a rad (without using an inner tube) and filling the rad with water before pressurizing it.

 

-- Edited by DB Cooper on Wednesday 23rd of April 2014 06:37:14 AM

DB Cooper wrote:

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DaveM wrote:

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Ever seen an bike inner tube , that is not inside a tire, pumped up  to 16psi?

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I don't remember if I've ever used this method before, but I think a person could add just enough air to inflate the inner tube, wrap the tube with a layer or two (or three or four) of duct tape to prevent ballooning, then bring the pressure up.

 

As far as finding a tank large enough to accept a rad, what about reversing and just putting water in the rad then pressurizing it.  Instead of looking for air bubbles, you'd be looking for the drip/wet spot (or maybe bubbles if you're using soapy water).

 

 

 

I have capped one end of a heater core then cobbled up something that allowed me to install an air tool fitting on the other end.  Added pressure using my compressor and dropped the core in a large bucket.  Spotted the leak instantly.  I don't know why you couldn't do the same thing to a rad (without using an inner tube) and filling the rad with water before pressurizing it.

the problem I found trying with water is that if a small leak that filling rad that if any water spilled on core it self that it it was hard to spot wet spot where as with air even small leak would show up.even with 10 15 lbs.that is what worked for me over the years.fixed at least 20 rads on race and street cars over last 1/2 century.not saying as good as or quick as rad shop but I worked with I had on hand.I have epoxied 4 alum rads but now have pressure tester.I used to use use bicycle pump in first 1/2 of the century.that being said I would never put rad back in with out testing he is right in doing it no matter what method he uses.laundry tub is what I used to put rad in I dont even think that most remember them LOL.I dont think rad shop would charge much to do if for peace of mind without tools on hand I would let rad shop do it the problem with if they find a leak they will want to recore rather than risk customer coming back with new leak if old school they they may do it but they are a dieing breed. today throw away replace not repair is the norm.hope it works out for him
 

-- Edited by DB Cooper on Wednesday 23rd of April 2014 06:37:14 AM

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First off, thanks for all the offers to use testers.

 

@DB Cooper - I had removed the rad, since I knew there was a leak in the filler tube.  So I wanted to test it prior to reinstalling.

I did find a solution and here is what I did:

Went to Lowes and bought a couple 1 1/2 plumper "Test plugs"

http://www.lowes.ca/pex-crimp-fittings/oatey-33401-2-in-dia-brass-pex-mechanical-plug-crimp-fitting_8779226.html

That was the closest size they had to my fill tunes on the radiator.  One I had to turn down a touch using a drill and sander, the second was a touch small, so a couple of rubber bands made it fit just right.

Once I installed them I filled the rad with water, installed the rad cap.  I wanted to see if the plugs would hold so i gave it a shot with the air compressor through the over flow fitting.  As soon as I did that, I found my leak as it started spitting water out of where I thought it was leaking.

I attempted to just heat that pipe to get it to reseal, but no luck so I had to heat it up enough to pull the filler tube completely.

Tomorrow I will clean it all up and re-solder the filler tube back in and test once again.

You do not need a tank if the rad is full, you will see where it is spitting water from.  If all else fails, use the bathtub when the other half is not home....lol