any key on power source will do it. Myself i would run it from the fuse block if you have space on its own circuit just easier to find if it ever becomes a problem.
HI SEEKER : Some time ago , I ran across a wiring diagragm that had a three -wire oil sender switch from NAPA and the choke was wired in such a way that power to the choke was somehow not made until oil pressure had been confirmed-- All to do with not flooding the motor , if it didn't start promptly -- I could look it up , if you are interested -- LATER -- DON / fleet 51
I can not - will not go through the firewall after fixing all of the holes , and putting a brand new wiring harness in the car.
There has to be something under the hood I can tap into
Fatstax - on the newer GM alternators with internal regulator - you have a red wire to power, and a brown wire to the side terminal - what I don't know is whether the brown wire is power, or a idiot light signal on these.
the alt has 3 wires, bat, field and the exciter wire to the indicator lamp which goes out when it turns on, we would use the field wire which gets power when the ignition is turned on, I guess its a switched ignition source really that gets power generally after the engine is running. any switched source would do
after 14 years of pumping the hell out of it I was thinking of hooking up my electric choke.
I was going to use the coil/dist. feed to excite a small relay that would send power to the choke.
My concern was over loading the switch.
keep in mind I don't get out much,, but that was my plan..
TMJ
Connect a 12v relay to the pos side of the coil, then wire the choke to the battery with a fuse. No extra load on switch, and you don't have to drill your firewall.
Connect a 12v relay to the pos side of the coil, then wire the choke to the battery with a fuse. No extra load on switch, and you don't have to drill your firewall.
Yea that's what I was trying to say. Hemi you just said it so much better than I did.
You know if you started your own party I would vote for you in the next election.
My alternator has the large red wire, a smaller red wire off the big alternator terminal to the side plug, and a brown wire that goes back to the firewall plug.
Is the brown wire the 12v ignition source?
If so it would make my life a whole lot easier to wire up as the brown wire runs right under/beside the carb.
I will do the relay thing as a last resort as it took a lot of work to hide all of the wiring, so nothing is visible, and a relay and all the attendant wiring would be a bear to hide.
I just googled how much current an electric choke takes. They draw about 1 amp. Just wire it to the + of the coil and be done with it.
The brown wire from the alternator is more than likely a sensing wire from the ignition switch. If it was me, I wouldn't be putting any kind of load on for fear of a bit of voltage drop.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Sunday 4th of May 2014 10:01:03 PM
if I recall right, the positive wire to the coil was also ran to the #2 of the alternator. stuff like that doesn't draw any amps hardly. the choke spring is just a bi metallic spring that also doesn't draw much for amps, you wont overload the circuit.
The #1 wire is the only switched voltage if you put it anywhere else it will be on when you turn off the car . I really don't think it will drop the line voltage or overload the line the idiot light goes out when both sides of the light turn positive meaning the alternator is producing power.
Batt
(Brown AWG #10 or #8 wire going to insulated terminal at rear of alternator) This terminal is for the alternator output to the battery. On Land Rovers equipped with an ammeter this lead goes directly to the ammeter POS terminal. The ammeter NEG side goes to the battery positive terminal, usually by being connected to the starter switch or relay. A 10 gauge wire will work for all the 10-SI alternators and the low to mid amp 12-SI alternators. The high amp 12-SI should get a AWG #8 wire. You should install a fusible wire link in this wire in case of an accidental short to keep the shorted wire connected directly to the battery from starting a fire. The fusible link should be placed near the battery. Brown wire if installing in a British vehicle, red wire if installing in an American vehicle. In the UK, brown is the standard colour for a wire that is always hot and unfused.
1 "Excite"
(White AWG # 14 or #16 wire on white molex plug) This wire provides the start up voltage for the alternator. The "1" alternator terminal is fed by a switched 12V source from the ignition switch through a lamp ("idiot light") and is used to supply the magnetic field inside the alternator with the voltage needed to operate. The alternator can not start charging until there is a voltage on the field winding and a magnetic force is created.
The “idiot” light is there to act as a visual indicator of under voltage and over voltage conditions at the battery. When the engine is running, if the idiot light is on, the output voltage of the alternator is out of specification.
2 "Sense"
(Red AWG #10 or #12 wire on white molex plug) The 'Sense' wire checks the voltage output level of the alternator. This is the reference voltage that the alternator uses to determine how much power to put out. If the sensed voltage gets higher than the regulator is adjusted for, the regulator causes the alternator to momentarily stop charging until the sensed voltage drops down to a specified amount, then the alternator resumes charging. The regulator basically turns the alternator on and off fast enough to keep the output voltage within a specified voltage range.
The Number two "sense" terminal is often connected to the BATT. terminal at the back of the alternator. This is the simplest connection and the least desirable since it is measuring the alternator output and not the voltage at the load connections. Any voltage drop due to loose, dirty or corroded connections and internal resistance of the wires and components is not accounted for and the voltage at the circuit loads may be lower than it should be. The voltage is best sampled in the interior of the vehicle after the fuse block load, where all the electrical current load of the vehicle is. The 'Sample' would better sense a voltage drop and and the alternator would correct for it.
Gnd
(Black AWG #10 or #8 wire going to screw on back case of alternator) When most people convert to a SI Series Delco alternator they leave off the ground wire and rely upon the alternator mounting bolts, engine block and engine to ground strap for an alternator return path. This works just fine most of the time as long as the mounting bolts are making a good electrical connection. Sometimes the ground connection may not be all that good or it may get worse over time. This higher resistance connection keeps the alternator from generating its full rated amperage. An AWG #10 or #8 gauge wire between the alternator ground connection and a good frame ground assures a good pathway for the alternator. This wire should have a fusible link in case your engine to frame ground strap fails and tries to route all the starter current through the alternator ground wire.
I wil ltry the #1 wire and see how that goes, as it is the one that sticks in my mind from years ago, and that wire runs right under the carb base so it is a neat tidy install too
i installed an electric choke on the q-jet on my 76 shark. i powered it from the exciter wire because i didn't want the choke to start pulling off as soon as the key was turned or if the ignition was on for a while without the engine running.
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