I have an intake manifold I need some welding done on
basically I need the runners built up along the bottom so that I can then grind out the inside past where the outter wall of the runner used to be so I need a fairly large amount of material added to it
this is because I want to run what is a small runner / port intake on a head with larger ( taller) ports but want to port it to match the head
what I'm needing has been done before by some guys in the US but up here I'm more on my own as far as getting this done
there is also a flange at the top that I want cut off and rewelded back on in a straighter position - the runners elbow just below the flange and I want most of that curve gone
this is an intake for a 4 cylinder dodge turbo motor - I can add pics and a drawing of what I wanna do but I'll have to dig the intake out of storage and hook my printer / scanner back up to the computer
I'm hopeing there's someone in the scarborough / pickering area that can do this - I'm not a cheep azz so no worry about getting paid fairly for the work lol
hopeing to find someone semi local to me as travel / time away from home is an issue while looking after my father - I can't spend great lengths of time away from home these days
edit - I should add that it well be a couple of months from now when I'm looking to get this done - I have a couple of other "to spend on " projects in line first
-- Edited by DJD on Thursday 5th of June 2014 02:38:52 PM
-- Edited by DJD on Thursday 5th of June 2014 03:04:20 PM
I can do it, but if you could post a picture of what you need,it would help. As long as the TIG torch can physically fit in the opening, there should be no issue.
I'm in Newcastle BTW.
-- Edited by hemi43 on Thursday 5th of June 2014 05:26:51 PM
You can add as much aluminum as you want with tig. I have tried spool gun and it really hates dirty aluminum. I repair cars, boats and trailers at work. The aluminum repair I do is not part of my trade so no idea if its really the right way but I have no failures as this is fleet and I will see it again. I have gotten the lower units back bent and twisted but not the repair broken off as a weld failure, couple things I do.
ok thanks - like I said welding aluminum I know zip about ..
first pic above does compare to what's needed to be added to each runner on my intake with regard to the amount needed to be added - though maybe slightly more over a longer area
you might try a place that repairs marine propellers and gear cases. around here there are a couple of places that do top notch work.
they sure went big time with the new building for the prop and machine shop up there. i've been using them for yrs and was up a couple of weeks ago to clear up a prop problem. nice people.
I use and I use it a lot Lincoln 43 rod on a dc welder with reverse polarity. Use rod at almost right angles and be ready to feed fast. 75 to 90 amps. It works very well on cast aluminum and although it looks ugly at first when you grind it you cannot find the seam. Maitland Welding guru Ron ****burn gave me the heads up on it several years ago. It is a white rod and is always available at Princess Auto and sometimes CTC or Crappy as we call it. It seems to work well on heavier castings. It take a bit of practice but once you "get it" works surprisingly well. Also very good for major Aluminum head repairs and very good for transmission cases as well. I have been piecing a broken Stg 6 Mopar head back together for a old pal. He gave up on the other trick stuff as it wouldn't work partly, as 43 says, because you cant get the access with a tig torch in some spots and partly because you need a fair amount of heat. I am not a great welder BTW but serviceable. Someone with some real skill could do a super job after a bit of practice on an old chunk of scrap. Basically you just have to be prepared for how fast you need to feed it and watch to avoid the hole at the end when you stop. I have built up BB Mopar manifolds for larger ports Max wedge or just below. There is always a tube of it in my drawer.
don
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