so I have a eddy carb 1813 800cfm sitting on a moper 360 with aluminium heads intake all the rest...now I got the carb to start up fine and idle all day long and rev up. Now until the car is completely warmed up, if I put it in gear drive or reverse it flat out stalls (even then sometimes when warm). if I do get out of the driveway and accelerate the car will back fire a little bit.
so I think I am running lean at idle it says around 12.4 but when I run it down the road I can be 10-1 to 16-1 or sometimes it reads -- blank
sound I put in smaller metering rods or what.
also I was wondering if the carb is too big for the moto
I'm with Harry. Sounds like a vacuum issue. Your erratic readings support this also.
Are you running vacuum advance on the distributor (factory), or a 6AL box or other ignition control.
The 360ci should be able to handle the 800cfm, the stock Thermoquads on a 340ci are rated @ 870cfm in '71.
99% vacuum for sure if you dont find at carb base, intake or lines check advance with mitivac pump for leaking diaphragm.be careful with quick start wd40 safer
-- Edited by 54vicky on Wednesday 13th of August 2014 09:33:26 PM
-- Edited by 54vicky on Wednesday 13th of August 2014 09:37:15 PM
yeah the choke os fine turns out the plugs are the bad guys changed then and it ran fine...Im still going though the car since I've only had two weeks Im sure I will need you guys again
There is a lot of junk in the gas we buy, even though the Gasoline companies brag about how clean their gas is. That junk cases flooding, stalling, running rich, washes down cylinder walls and contaminates engine oil. Gasoline is not a lubricant. Use a SUM-G1512 (FF601HP) 5 microns fuel filter 3/8" line from Summit. Most factory/o.e. filters are 20-25 microns. The 1985-91 Ford Bronco inline filter Wix 33097 or Fram G7099 is 10 microns but 5/16 inch line. Make sure no part of bottom of carb is touching any part on engine that will keep it from sealing on intake manifold, like a vacuum nipple or bolt, egr valve or pipe plug. Pull carb off, gently remove top and clean out fuel float bowl/reservoir and clean needle valve and seat. Blow out fuel lines before you re-install. Set float level before you re assemble carb. If you don't have settings contact Edelbrock. Run Ethanol neutralizer in every tank. Use a thicker soft carburetor base gasket. It will help seal base of carb. Check intake manifold gaskets with Ether for air leaks. Check All vacuum hoses for leaks, collapse and deterioration. Don't let anybody give you that old "we never did that before" routine. This crap in the gas and ethanol problem has gotten worse in the last few years. All carburetors and old fuel pumps need protection from ethanol and the junk in the gas. Try It! Your Carb and gas cannot be TOO clean. Please note that fuel injection systems use finer filters. Why? Duramax diesel owners are now changing to 3-5 micron fuel filters due to premature fuel injector failure. The crap in the fuel is causing injector service and replacement at 1/2 to 1/3 the life of Ford and Dodges. Why? Your car is displaying the same problems, dirt on needle valve (or on fuel injector tip). We are paying $1 million per litre for gasoline and getting foreign substances in it. Protect yourself. One last thing. Flooding and running rich adds gasoline to your reduced zinc engine oil and what happens to your camshaft and lifters?
the Kid
-- Edited by Gwillyville Kid on Tuesday 7th of October 2014 05:17:17 PM
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