This winters project 1957 Bel-Air Rebuild. I have owned this car since 1975 its one of three 57’s that I have had. These picture run from 1975 to 1981 She last ran a 400 small block balanced. Then one hot Saturday night dropped the drive shaft, zinged the tack, twisted a rod, cracked the 5 and 7 holes, Split the tranny. Dragged it home and let it sit, as I was getting married. Now I’m retired, it’s Time to play again.
Nice car :) I am looking at a 57' Chevy myself right now :)
Are you using the stock motor mounts? When you rebuild it, I would go to a set of Danchuck side mounts for the motor, and a trans crossmember. Its much easier on the trans than the bellhousing mounts and the trans hanging way out all by itself. I have done this on all the 55-57 chevs and canadian pontiacs I have had in the past. Makes a big different in trans durability.
Unless you have the dana already, just do a Ford 9". Much lighter and with a few aftermarket bits ( 31 spline axles, pinion support) will survive forever on a street car.
Are you doing a traditional looking engine? If not, just pick up some aftermarket heads from a reputable manufacturer with a 200 or 215cc intake port. Only a few hundred more than getting an old set rebuilt, and worth 50+hp easily. For iron heads the Iron Eagle Platinums are hard to beat price wise, flow excellent, and are good quality. For aluminum the Brodix Race Rites are probably the best "cheap" aluminum heads, but the AFR 195 or 210's are just killers.
Is the width correct on the Dana? Is it a semi, or full floater rear?
They did make a semi floater Dana 60 rear that is the correct width, and even has a 5 bolt pattern, but they are the rare and valuable mopar B body rears.
Neat looking 57. I like the way you did the tilt front end without cutting the fenders as most guys do. I see you even had disc brakes on it back then.
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Custom CNC plasma cutting. PM me for your custom parts.
for a spring suggestion maybe try Howard Race Engines in Barrie . he helped me with my hydraulic G K cam for springs . with the springs an retainers he chose mine has hit 6500 regular at drags . no problems . His name is Bill . tell him doug the amc guy told you to call him . he,s doing some iron heads over for me right now ..77.
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I,m as cool as Milner , but axeually a bit more like Beckwith
Like your build or rebuild. Nice to revive an old project. Will be watching this one.
Have done a few of the 1 ton dana conversions. Bought the normal ends and ordered the axles. Worked very well although it is true they are heavy. Midnight Mirada, Gary Wagar, often
seen at Cayuga and Shannonville runs one I did maybe 15 years or so ago.
don
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That cam is a very old design similar to the Comp Magnum 280H. The proper springs from comp would be the 981's and they will drop into a stock spring seat. You can also use a set of Z28 springs shimmed to the proper pressure but the Comps tend to hold their pressure better and are only about $65 plus shipping.
If you are buying aftermarket heads, just buy them with the standard hydralic cam spring package and they will be fine.
I wouldn't bother with Rhoads lifters since they pump down too fast. Any set of quality lifters would be fine.
Switching gears, the attempt now is to build as was possible in 1965.
Some one is always faster and these shoeboxs don't cut the air.
So I will play at slower pace with out new high tec / buck parts..
In '61 D/G record was 13.06 @ 106mph, set at the first Winter national in Pomona. The E/G record held in'65 was 12.48 @110 mph with a stock bore & stroke 283.
So for heads 327 double bumps 64cc I already have.
If you ever get to Summit racing store in Ohio be sure to check out the front west corner.
There are a few racks of deals / returns / open packages/ display items at discount.
I lucked out with a set of hooker super comp wheel well headers. I recognised the part number as I was going to buy them in spring.
This trip was for engine parts/ shocks/ and gas tank. But the price on headers made me drop the gas tank and snap up the hookers. Good karma is good stuff!
Are you building the inside of the engine period correct or going to make it a bit more modern inside for reliability?
BTW - get your heads crack checked before you put any money into them. I just went through crack testing a dozen sets of early SBC heads a friend of mine had, and of the 24 heads, 7 were cracked and unrepairable without welding.
That cam is a very old design similar to the Comp Magnum 280H. The proper springs from comp would be the 981's and they will drop into a stock spring seat. You can also use a set of Z28 springs shimmed to the proper pressure but the Comps tend to hold their pressure better and are only about $65 plus shipping.
If you are buying aftermarket heads, just buy them with the standard hydralic cam spring package and they will be fine.
I wouldn't bother with Rhoads lifters since they pump down too fast. Any set of quality lifters would be fine.
Ran that cam& spring in my a car engine and it worked great.Was in a 355 / oe dished pistons,487x heads,marine Qjet,T M 1 intake Went 13.446 in the S jimmy and 13.83/ 13.89 in the Acadian. You will have fun with that camshaft.Keep us up to date
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Reality; A test of Mind and Spirit And BODY. (`-`)
I have a ford 9 measures 45 inches flange to flange needs center section and brakes but I do have 40 spline axles with 5/8 wheel studs by mark Williams has 40 spline full spool by strange new 514 gears if interested I would sell this would bullet proof your build love your 57 my favorite car , Jay.
As another long time tri 5 owner (37 years).....I really look forward to seeing your 57 Chevy back on the street brother....best of luck......it's going to look and sound great!
BTW - any gasket will seal up the steam holes fine. I would use the standard felpro composites since they are cheap and work fine in an application like yours.
O.K. Running late on build. But have new alum. heads that flow 258 /217, Picked up a TKO600 that has been tweaked by Liberty's.
I am not Falcon-ing around :)
I bought the single program from HOK to play with and plan my paint job. The dark blue is very close. The purple is close. The light blue is to light and the pink is supposed to be a magenta. The program only has 300 colors. I have all the real paint bought, this is just playing with proportions and layout with colors available. The body is up on jack stands with bare metal and gutted. Frontend is off, trunk lid is off, doors off. Glass out. The mystery engine is on engine stand with plastic over it. I want a cleaner look on the sides. So Just the name, to let the body and trim show. I will delete some Belair trim for a lighter 210 look. On the hood and trunk lid I wanted 60’s color pop. I want a single row of gold bowties run down the center of hood and trunk between the stripes. This program will not do it for me easily. Back of hood will be interrupted with twin Holley’s. Would I buy this program again? It has some use, but has many limitations. But with the cost of paint, ya it is some help in making up your mind on what to do. Something similar to this 3D image should be seen next year at bowling green Ky. and St. Thomas Ont.
-- Edited by REBEL on Saturday 17th of October 2015 04:16:22 PM
-- Edited by REBEL on Monday 30th of November 2015 06:00:32 PM
