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Post Info TOPIC: Mustang ll suspension


COBBLE HILL, BC

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Mustang ll suspension
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I'm thinking about getting rid of the beam axle and buggy spring in my '37 Ford.

Has anyone here had experience with Mustang ll in one of these? 1935 to 1940.

Any name brands? I see them advertised for $1300 and up. Looks like a good one is around $2000.

I would like to buy from a Canadian supplier if possible.

Thank you for any information.



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S/W ONTARIO

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Your ride but,, if it were mine I would just tune up what you have.
I'm not against MII at all I had one for several years.
I still have one in the shop in a '40 that I haven't driven yet.
It isn't a small job changing it over. I once had a drivable rod,, tore it apart and lost interest. I ended up selling it that way.
If you do it use your measuring tape before you buy to get the ride height right..
IMO
TMJ

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ST GEORGE, ONT

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A friend of mine used the Fatman Fabrications hub to hub kit in his 54 Dodge truck and loves it.
I took a tour of Fatman's shop in North Carolina a couple of years ago, very impressive.
Call and talk to them before you order anything, they're very helpful

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COBBLE HILL, BC

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I was looking at their product on-line. They have a kit that is a bit narrower than normal. Something to do with tires not rubbing the fenders, if you are lower than normal. Looks like they know what they're doing.

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S/W ONTARIO

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If you are going to do it you should look at these

www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/

Paul has been at it forever. He can give you the measurement from the frame to the center of the spindle. You can figure out what your

height will be.

I had a '36 with a 56" wide front end, 15"x6" wheel and the center of the tire was in the sweet spot of the fender. It sat right with no

clearance issues.

I know lots of guys use fatman but I don't like the way the springs have to sit in there kind of bent 'cuz the tophats are flat.

Henry didn't design them that way.Look at the completed front end from the front.

Just my opinion.

TMJ

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COBBLE HILL, BC

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I would rather buy Canadian if I can. I'll call Horton's and see what they can do.
Thank you for the link.

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PORT ROWAN, ONT

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I read a story once where the strut rod bracket welds broke at the frame on a 40 with IFS. Don't know what make it was. Those frames are thin in that area . If you do the conversion, I would beef up the frame in that area. I have a stock front end with discs and power steering on my 39 and it works fine. Just drop the wishbone ball about an inch to give more caster-better handling.

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COBBLE HILL, BC

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One article I read says to box the frame right back to the firewall.
Sounds like a good idea.

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ST GEORGE, ONT

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jarvis1 wrote:

One article I read says to box the frame right back to the firewall.
Sounds like a good idea.


 For sure ,it's a good idea to box the frame

my friend that put the Fatman set up in his truck boxed the front half of his frame, says he'll do the rest later when he does his rear suspension

Here's a pic of his truck with the Fatman set up

image.jpg

He had to buy another steering column and some double D shaft 

 



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BELLE RIVER, ONT

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I had a Fatman Ultra low crossmember in my 47 Convertible and put a lot of trouble free miles on it. I do know of cases where cracks have developed in the frame and it was blamed on the super heavy duty tubing used by Fatman. I'm not an engineer or a qualified welder so I don't know the circumstances or what really happened but I have seen the cracks. The Welder Series stuff gets my vote though. Paul's been doing this for a long time and has a great reputation. You can buy his stuff already weled up through Horton's Hot Rods in Milton.

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