Marten's '53 Ford pick up

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Marten's '53 Ford pick up

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Real nice start. Mike showed us a few pictures from picking it up. Im looking forward to watching the build.

V2addict · CRAIGHURST, ONT

Marten wrote:
Ok everyone, let me see if this will work. First off I am not a computer guys so doing this is really tricky for me so please bear with me.
You will see a bit about me in the intro page of this forum. At Christmas time the LOML set up a separate account for me to start building my first hot rod/street rod. My dream was the '53-'53 Ford pick-up but did not think it was a doable first project. Started looking at kit cars (Factory Five '33 hot rod was my choice there) but the cost was way more then what was in the account. The dollar exchange is killing me. Could save but that could be years away and did not want to wait any longer. I have wanted to do something like this since I was able to drive, so 35 years later the dream is now starting to become real. I have a great brother who is a mechanic and has built rods as well. Spent some time talking to him and a couple of others. I finally decided to follow my first love. After a few months I found something that I think is workable. This truck is in a lot of pieces but the frame work is mostly done. The guy I bought it off had put in a Flat Out Engineering kit front and rear to allow for a C-4 Vette suspension system to go in.
This was taken the day I moved it off a trailer and into my shop. The only thing that has change is the whole front end is now bolted in temporary.
The rest of what I bought is in my barn/storage place.
The truck also came with a motor and trans out of the same '86 Vette. The trans and rear end where rebuilt already. Motor has 79,000 miles on it so I was told.
My understanding is that this truck has been in storage for over 20 years before being taken apart.
So from here I am hoping to take in to Belleville to my brothers on May 23-25 so he can help me (read he will do the work) box in the frame. This is assuming I can find a trailer to borrow or rent. After that breaks and fuel line I guess. So if you have any advise it is all welcome please as I am so dumb I don't even know what questions to ask.
I will try to keep you up to date but because I am self employed and a couple of other reasons I don't often get a chance to work on hobby stuff so this may be a little slow. Thanks for reading all the way to the end.

Marten

Very cool story Marten, it is exactly my same story right down to the FF! in the end I also went with the pick up truck, mine is a 56 Ford.

Welcome to the forum, great group of people here, lots of information and help, and everyone is always ready to make you feel ok about ask those dumb questions! No attitudes here.

V2 Addict

Angelo

studeshaker · BUCKHORN, ONT

looks like a neat project and a good platform to work from. you might consider using an older engine to avoid future grief from the m.o.e. "fun police"

wolfman1 · ST GEORGE, ONT

Cool project, thanks for sharing and keep posting

51 Styline · NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

studeshaker wrote:
looks like a neat project and a good platform to work from. you might consider using an older engine to avoid future grief from the m.o.e. "fun police"

X2 on using an "older" engine re the MOE. If you do go with the 86 engine you will have to use ALL of the Emission controls that were on the 86 Corvette.

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Hi all,
Are you guys sure about the emissions stuff. We looked into it and were told that we don't have to worry about it as long as it does not smoke because we have to match the '53 standard. The plan was to lose all the polution stuff. Would like to bring the motor to about 400 hp. Not sure how that will work out as I have not figured out how to get there yet. I like the look of carb'd motors so was thinking efi only because I like that look more so then the existing tpi intake it now has.
Marten

studeshaker · BUCKHORN, ONT

you were told wrong marten. the motor is 1986 so, it must have everything required for emissions on a 1986 engine. the eastern part of south central ontario is a favourite target for the fun police. it's gotten so bad that many of us no longer open the hoods at cruise nights. there are several threads on this subject.

invision · NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

Great project! Looking forward to your updates Marten.

51 Styline · NIAGARA FALLS, ONT

Marten wrote:
Hi all,
Are you guys sure about the emissions stuff. We looked into it and were told that we don't have to worry about it as long as it does not smoke because we have to match the '53 standard. The plan was to lose all the polution stuff. Would like to bring the motor to about 400 hp. Not sure how that will work out as I have not figured out how to get there yet. I like the look of carb'd motors so was thinking efi only because I like that look more so then the existing tpi intake it now has.
Marten

There is a thread here " Emissions Legal,, How is it done ". There is a lot of good info there. I am in the process of re-doing my 51 with 85 Chev 350. No emission controls now but I have purchased 2 new converters, and EGR valve. Then to the wreckers to get emission Cannister and hoses and hope to satisfy inspectors if pulled over. I thought I wouldn't need the controls but after reading the threads here and checking in to the laws I found out different. You have to meet the standards for the engine if its put in an older car , and if you put an older engine in a newer car you have to meet the standards for the newer car. They pretty much got you no matter which way you go.

Nickeleye · COURTICE, ONT

Nice truck, looking forward to the updates.

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

So finally some progress this past weekend. Took the frame to Belleville to the shop of Lightspeed Metal Design to have the frame boxed in. Turned out to be a bit more work then expected but got it done by 1:00 pm Monday.

Here is the frame ready for the trip to Belleville. Notice the tires, they are the newest thing from Goodyear, latest in run flat technology.

This is Mike doing the actual work. I am not a welder so he did most of the work.

Here is the finished product, ready to go back on the trailer and back to Ottawa.

So now I have some work to do. Will do the grinding and priming this week I hope. Then on to brake lines, fuel lines and motor mock up. I was missing some parts but the guy I bought the truck from was to ship up the missing stuff so hoping it will be here this week.

If someone in my area would like to come down and guide me in what to get for the brake and fuel lines that would be great. This world is outside of anything I have done so don't even know what to call the parts and pieces and sizes that I need.

Missed out on an engine hoist last week so now on the look out for one unless someone has one locally they are not using for a bit that I can borrow.

Lightspeed Mike · BELLEVILLE, ONT

Happy to help Marten. After all if you didn't help build the shop we wouldn't have a place to do the work on your truck.

Marten did quite a bit of work, he made most of the templates and used them to cut out the little pieces needed for the frame on the band saw. It was easier to do them this way than on the CNC plasma cutter.
First job we had to do was reverse all the mounting bolts for the brackets as they normally bolt form the inside. Nuts were welded inside the frame first and them the old nuts were knocked off the brackets.
Before welding in the boxing plates 1/4" holes were drilled 1" up and spaced about 8" apart then 1/4" nuts welded to the back side off the plates these will be used to fasten the brake and fuel lines in. It's way easier to do them this way than to drill and tap later.
It's amazing to see how flimsy the frame was before and how solid it is afterward.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Nice work guys.Id run the same size line as the downer vehicle likely 3/16

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

So it has been a while since I updated this but there has been some progress. I have run all the brake lines and after a couple of attempts got them bled as well. First attempt did not work, as all we (my oldest son and I )got was air and no fluid. A few days later I took the brake system all apart including the master cylinder. Everything was good so put the master back together and bled it first, then put the proportioning valve on and bled it, then the lines were attached again. After much pumping it finally work. Did this on my own as my son had to go back to Petawawa. Very proud that I was able to figure this out on my own. Later talking to a friend and telling him about this he says you have to do it this way. Go figure.

So on July 1 a brand new motor was delivered to my place. Found it on Kijiji. 350 Chev bored 30 over. Puts out just over 400 hp and 415 ft/lbs torque. This is what I was looking to do with the motor I had but could not beat the price. So buddy that told me about the brakes was over and gave me a had to install flex plate and torque converter.

Thanks to Henry J he was able to hook me up with someone that has an engine hoist I could borrow. (big thanks to Henry J and Ross) This weekend put the motor and trans together.

Now with a chassis, motor and trans all in my shop, my shop is getting really small. After two attempt I was able to lift the unit and get it over the frame and down into place. Was very excited to be able to do this until....

got the unit all the way down only to find out the oil pan hits the rack and pinion before the motor mounts connect together with the frame part of the motor mounts. Seems like the guy that I bought it off set the mounts in the wrong place. If you look closely at the picture the motor mount bolts are resting on top of the frame mount parts and the oil pan is touching the fitting for the power steering line.

So now I am stuck as to what to do next.

Not sure if the angle of the motor as it sits in the frame is OK. Not sure what to do about the mounting points. Not sure how this affects the transmission cross member and pinion angle stuff. I know I can get another Corvette rack with the fittings moved to the front instead of on top, that part is easy enough but a little pricy.

Now before everyone jumps up and says make new mounts up and weld them in, I am not a welder. I could take it to someone but would have to rent a trailer. Trying to avoid that again, getting costly and have nothing for it. I don't mind spending a little money if I get something out of it but hate spending and not having anything to show for it. Not sure how this would work it terms of having the motor and trans with the frame.

I guess my dream world would have someone down to my place to cut out the old mounts and weld in some new ones.

If someone in the area know about motor installation and such that could stop by and guide me that would be great.

Sorry for the ramble, just frustrated and a little lost. Your ideas are welcomed and appreciated.

Marten

Barchetta · TORONTO, ONT

As far as the engine mounts go, if you take a look at the pad on the intake where the carb will sit, it is on a slight angle compared to the rest of the engine (or center line of crank). When the carburetor pad is level, the engine and trans will tilt down towards the back of the car. The general belief is that this will put the engine trans at a 3 degree angle.

It boils down to this .... with the chassis sitting at your expected ride height or 'rake' and this is a big assumption based on the fact that the body, interior, gas tank, etc is not presently is place, the carburetor pad should be level.

So, to break it down, here are my thoughts on your engine placement .... set your chassis at the intended ride height where you expect the truck will be when it is completely finished, now check the angle of the carburetor pad on the intake manifold. If, with the trans where it is now, you are getting a measurement (off the carb pad) of 3 degrees down (again, toward the back of the chassis), you should be able to remake/reposition the engine mounts, leaving the trans mount where it is. If, with the chassis at your expected ride height, and with the engine jacked up to where it clears the rack, your carb pad is not level, you need to raise the trans mount, then re-position the engine higher in the chassis to the point where the carb pad is level and you are able to clear the rack. Depending on how much the trans needs to be lifted/raised (if at all), you may be able to just make some spacers that will raise the trans up from the crossmember, then remake/recreate new engine mounts that correctly position the engine in relation to the trans and rack.

I know what I mean so hoping this makes sense to you too biggrin

One thing that I should add, if the truck is to be slammed, getting both the engine and trans up away from the ground is a good thing as far as ground clearance goes, however you may run into issues with trans to floor pan clearance, so you should keep that in mind.

What would I do? Install the engine mounts so the engine clears the rack, then modify or make a new trans mount that allows the engine and trans to sit at the correct angle when the completed truck is at its expected ride height. The engine obviously needs to clear the rack, if it is jacked to clear and the angles are off too much, then the engine and trans mounts need to be redone.

-- Edited by Barchetta on Sunday 19th of July 2015 09:33:54 PM

henrys57wagon · WOODLAWN, ONT

Looking good Martin, we are glad to help with the hoist, may take a trip down to see you soon.

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Happy to have you down Henry, anytime. Calling a head is better then just dropping in, you never know what we are up to.

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

I have been doing a little bit on the truck but not much of picture worthy stuff. Last week was exciting for me as the LOML went to the states to a warehouse spot we have and picked up a bunch of parts that I ordered.

In there I got my rack and pinion back as it got sent to Flatout Engineering to be rebuilt to accommodate the motor placement. There was more stuff but this is most of it.

After several attempts I got the flex plate, torque converter, transmission and motor all bolted together. Earlier I had the trans and motor together but not wit the flex plate and converter. So now it is all together and sitting in the frame. This seems simple but at one point in time I thought I was going to have to send out the trans for someone to look at. I could not get the torque converter to spin in the trans. Had a friend stop by and he said it would have to go to a shop. Got mad and pushed the motor to one corner and trans to another. A week later I tried to spin the converter and it worked just like magic. A ferry must have fixed it for me.

I had a new driveshaft made up as well and that is now installed. Looks like it just clears everything. Good thing it is a vette rear end so it does not move.

So now I can start bolting on my goodies. May have to stop shopping for a bit as I went well over budget on the parts I got.

I have a tech question but will post it in the tech section.

Thanks for looking.

Ninop69 · THORNHILL, ONT

Looking good so far!

Nickeleye · COURTICE, ONT

Nice!

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Before getting into an update I want to give a very big thanks you to a few people that have helped me. Lightspeed Mike for putting up with all the questions and stuff I bug him about. Henry J and his friend Ross for the use of the engine hoist. Man have I put that to good use. A friend Brian who has been down a couple of times to help me. A friend Paul who listens to me babble and guides me as well with his opinions. My wife (Debbie) for putting up with this project and the hot rod talk. Must drive people nuts if you are not into it. And a big thanks to Paul for selling me his baby. Hope I can return all the favours to you guys.

I have had rare chance to spend a block of time with my hot rod this weekend. Actually ended up with Friday as a day off. A rare thing in my world. I put most of the stuff on that I bought a bit ago. Once again I had to pull the motor out but hopefully for the last time. I was not happy with the orange colour so painted it red while it was out. Here are a couple of pictures of the motor.

The belts are not the right size but wanted to see if the pulleys lined up. Actually worked real nice.

The rack and pinion were rebuilt to have the two fittings on the front instead of the top so I could get the clearance between the motor and rack that I needed. Next thing here is to install the power steering lines to the pump.

The black cable is a kick down cable for the transmission. This seems real easy to install, maybe to easy. Is it as easy as shorting up the black conduit and attaching it to the bracket on the carb then attaching the wire inside it to the carb linkage?

I had the brake booster together but due to an unfortunate accident had to take it out and get it fixed. so back together and bleed the brake system tonight as well.

Last picture, gives you an overall idea of what it looks like. Super happy with the way it looks now.

So now a request as you read this. I am really going at this blindly. I have put everything on but just loosely. I am so dumb about building motors and hot rods that I don't even know what questions to ask, so please if you have any questions or "did you do this " type statements I could really use them. Don't want to tighten everything down and find out I should have done something different.

Would love to fire up the motor to hear what it sounds like. The starter is on. I have use of a booster pack. Is there a way of firing up this now, the way it sits and hear it run. How do I get fuel to it? Can I just use a small cup and pour a bit in the carb or do I need to connect the fuel pump and run a line into a jerry can? What else am I missing.

I am out of money for now but next steps would be connecting the fuel cell, connecting the transmission cooler lines to the rad, connecting the rad hoses to the rad and blocking off the heater line from the water pump (temporary). I need to buy stuff for all that first. Any advice here is also welcome.

For the fuel system I have both a high volume mechanical and electric fuel pumps. If I use the mechanical one how do I run a line into the fuel cell? I have more questions here but will wait for now.

Thanks for the help from all of you.

chips · Veteran Member

I used a plastic one gallon gas can, drilled a hole in the bottom and installed a fitting that accepts 3/8" fuel line. Ran the line to an electric fuel pump then to the carb. No reason you can't just run the gas to your mechanical pump. Locate a charged battery, attach the positive cable to the starter and the negative to the engine. Run a single wire from the positive of the battery to your HEI. Make sure there is fluid in the rad and that you have a belt spinning the water pump. I crossed terminals on the start to get the engine spinning. When you want to turn off the engine, just remove the wire feeding power to your HEI. You (in my opinion) definitely need a temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge (I used cheapies from Canadian Tire for my engine run stand).

If your engine has never been run before, you need to be prepared to break in the cam if it isn't a roller. Do NOT play around with repeated stops and starts or letting the engine idle until the (if flat tappet) cam has been broken in.

It is going to be L O U D with open headers inside. Adding some temporary mufflers would give you a better chance of detecting noises (and save your hearing) the engine shouldn't be making if there are issues.

It WILL be stinky. Be prepared to open a large door and if the garage is attached to your house ...... send the wife shopping before you attempt to start it wink

I should also add, I never bothered to set up a charging system on my run stand, the battery holds enough juice to run the engine for quite a while before needing to recharge the battery. Also, even with coolant, a rad, and the water pump spinning, the engine WILL get hot .... you really should have either a mechanical or electric fan rigged up.

I say it's best to set it up so you can run it long enough that you can warm it up, look for leaks, set the timing, adjust the carb etc.

Looking at your engine pics, I wouldn't put a belt on your power steering, no point in spinning a dry pump.

Don't cut the trans cable too short. It should hug the engine and trans pretty closely, as it needs to clear the floor and firewall of the cab.

-- Edited by chips on Sunday 25th of October 2015 08:54:38 PM

henrys57wagon · WOODLAWN, ONT

Looking good Martin. Good advice on running the engine. I have a boat gas tank that I was fixing up to use on our run in stand, but for now we use a small tank off of a snowblower and it can be mounted a bit higher than the carb so no need for the pump, but closed off when not in use. Hook up your rad and fan and you should be good to go.

To get the engine started I set the balancer at about 10* BTDC and mark the distributor under #1 wire and turn the rotor so it is pointing at the mark which will be pretty good to start with. I have one of those remote start switches so you do not have to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver.

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

Marten it's your truck but if it was my truck I would have a somewhat loose fitting support on the push rod that goes from the pedal to the booster.

There is going to be some up/down movement on the pedal end so the support cant be tight.

Just to keep the rod from dropping out on the booster end if there was enough movement.

The sound of the rod dragging on the ground could be the start of,,,,,,,, OH shyt!!!!!

IMO

-- Edited by toomuchjunk on Tuesday 27th of October 2015 09:33:06 AM

henrys57wagon · WOODLAWN, ONT

More thoughts on the brake system and it may only be the angle of the pic, is would the pedal/ arm not be more horizontal/ vertical which would shorten the rod. Fabing an angle off the frame with a vertical slot would not be too much for us to do for you if needed.

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

Here we go with brakes again...

I didnt see 2lb residual valves in the lines....did I miss them?

Just asking

V2addict · CRAIGHURST, ONT

6/32" lines?

or 1/4"

Can't remember Cat?

Sorry I had to, it was so much fun learning about this last year.

BAHAHAHA

V2 addict AKA Angelo

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Hi guys and thanks for the feed back.
Cat in the hat-what are 2 lb residual valves? Clearly I don't have them as I don't know what they are.

toomuchjunk-not sure what you mean. I know the rod comes out of the booster, thought I broke it until l took a close look and noticed it just sits in the booster part, that seems odd to me. I can shorten up the threaded rod more but was not sure how much until I get the cab on so I can line up the peddles, or am I looking at this wrong? Perhaps a picture would help.

chips and henry, not sure I fully understand what you are saying here(did I mention I am really dumb with this stuff, oh, and all new to me, lol) The guy I bought the motor off has had it on a dyno so I hope it is tuned already. He did show me the dyno sheets. For sure I will get the cooling system connected before turning this on. Need to find a bit of money first lol.
The way you talk about the wiring of the starter has me confused as well but hopefully by the time I can do it, it will be much clearer.
Sorry guys if I am asking silly questions, at times I am overwhelmed. My brother is a big help but it would be nicer if he lived say 10 min from my place.

IR Mechanik · INGERSOLL, ONT

I think this is what Cat in the hat is referring to:
www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

So I have made a bit more progress. Mike from Lightspeed was up last weekend to give me a hand to move my motor. We moved it forward about 4 1/2" so the cab would fit on the frame without interference. Today I put on the front fenders and fascia to see how the wheels look. The motor is just tacked in place incase I need to move something else again. I also put on the box and rear fenders. In the pictures you will see the running board is there as well. Just sitting loose to get some perspective. I have attached some pictures because I need some opinions please. The first is the overall but the next four are the wheels. Do they look OK to you? The front fenders will sit about 4 1/2" above the ground as it sits. At this point anything can be changed. The front crossmember is in square. Would like your opinion please about the wheels location and stance. And for those that thought my wheels looked or sounded funny, they held up well.

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

Glad to see you moved the engine ahead properly.

Looks good

TMJ

parklane · St THOMAS, ONT

Maybe its just me, but looks like the front wheels could move forward another inch or so.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

I think you need to install the running boards to tie it together . that is if you don't want to alter the sheet metal too much. could be the angle but the boards should be at the same angle as the cab and bed. the bed looks low so raising it will change the stance . once it is all lined up i think the rear will need to drop

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

I agree with Slim. Attach the running board properly and drop the back down some IMO

TMJ

69SS454 · MILTON, ONT

Nice build so far. Thanks for posting

Jeepsterhemi · St-Francois du Lac, Québec

parklane wrote:
Maybe its just me, but looks like the front wheels could move forward another inch or so.

You're right.......these trucks came from the factory like that: wheelbase one inch too short in the front.....you have to correct it when you rod them.......

Lightspeed Mike · BELLEVILLE, ONT

slim wrote:
I think you need to install the running boards to tie it together . that is if you don't want to alter the sheet metal too much. could be the angle but the boards should be at the same angle as the cab and bed. the bed looks low so raising it will change the stance . once it is all lined up i think the rear will need to drop

Looks like the back of the cab is to high. Once lowered the running boards should line up more parallel.

Petebil · ONTARIO

MTO will probably pull you over with those wheels. There's a lug nut missing on each one.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Hard to say mike without seeing it up close could even be a bit of both. . But its the perfect time to get it set were you are happy Martin . Easy to bang around without damaging new paint.

I was just eye balling the cab in relation to the box ( bottom of the front stake pocket and the top of the box as a reference .

with a bit of rake

427CARL · CLINTON, ONT

The amount of fabrication is awesome I love the rims....(are they for sale)

I love your engine will MOE allow you to run chrome and nice valve covers I was told everything had to be factory finish

V2addict · CRAIGHURST, ONT

Hi Martin, I moved mine on my 56 forward 1.25" and the wheel sits in the centre of the front fenders, this was a measurement I read on the F-100 Forum, I did the same as you and tacked everything and assembled it before I took it back apart for welding, I also think it was a suggestion on the Heits Instructions for my front cross member.

Sorry I don't have a current photo, if you like it will be home again this weekend and I can try to upload a picture or happily e-mail you one if it helps.

Nice build by the way!

Angelo

V2addict · CRAIGHURST, ONT

www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum41/

This is the link to the Ford F-100 site, there is a lot of specifics there but this place (Forum) is still way more fun!

Angelo

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Thanks for the help guys.
Angelo, I also posted this problem on the Ford truck web site. Tons of people there for sure.
427Carl, yes I may sell these rims and tires. Work great as long as you don't do any burnouts. lol
Petebil, Missing lug nuts are because I took them from my son and his car uses only 4, go figure
Others, I think I found out what the problem with the cab/running boards is. It appears that the cab frame mounts were installed upside down. More problems to over come. Sure wish something was easy for me to do.
On the upside, I have now bought a welder so I can start building things out of steel. Now I need to learn to use it. smile

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

Hi guys,
So I had a chance to lower the back of the cab yesterday. The cab mounts were installed upside down. It now sits perfect with the running boards. Went back and double checked everything. It appears the rear end is perfect but the front wheels could be moved forward about 3/4"-1" to be perfect in the wheel wells. So how hard is it to move the cross member? Currently it is welded in with about 8" of weld on each side? Is there an easy way/any way of doing this? The plan is to have a driving truck but also to show at local shows, after all it is still a competition for me. Still like winning more then losing. (just being honest). It is important to me that is looks good, it becomes a risk reward thing right now.
Marten

chips · Veteran Member

The "easiest" way to solve your problem may be to alter the fender itself by either moving the entire wheel well back 1/2" - 3/4" within the fender itself or by shortening the wheel well within the fender by just moving the forward lip of the wheel well back in the fender (shortening the overall width of the wheel well). This can be done but it may also alter the appearance of the truck (too much forward overhang) and it may end up just looking wrong. I think the term for this may be "sectioning a fender" similar to what the altered wheelbase drag racers used to do.

Other than that, it's a matter of grinding out all the welds, moving the cross member forward, and possibly altering the notch in the frame for rack and pinion clearance.

Cab mounts upside down, front suspension cross member too far back, engine mounts too far back ..... what's next?

fairmont fender.jpg

-- Edited by chips on Saturday 6th of February 2016 08:26:58 AM

-- Edited by chips on Saturday 6th of February 2016 08:45:42 AM

Jeepsterhemi · St-Francois du Lac, Québec

chips wrote:

....Cab mounts upside down, front suspension cross member too far back, engine mounts too far back ..... what's next?.....

next is the best part of building rods.............a little more EXPERIENCE...............been there myself..........

-- Edited by chips on Saturday 6th of February 2016 08:26:58 AM

-- Edited by chips on Saturday 6th of February 2016 08:45:42 AM

chips · Veteran Member

chips wrote:

....Cab mounts upside down, front suspension cross member too far back, engine mounts too far back ..... what's next?.....

Jeepsterhemi wrote:

next is the best part of building rods.............a little more EXPERIENCE...............been there myself..........

Hi Jeepster, Noticing that you are new to this site I feel I should point out (as I'm unsure if you're aware) that Marten bought this truck as an unfinished project that some else failed to complete. The issues I mentioned in my earlier post came with the truck as these modifications were either done by the previous owner, a previous owner (not knowing how many owners this truck has had), or someone hired by a previous owner. This really sucks for Marten (I'm sure) as probably a large part of the appeal of buying this truck was probably that "most of the hard work has already been done".

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Marten wrote:
Hi guys,
So I had a chance to lower the back of the cab yesterday. The cab mounts were installed upside down. It now sits perfect with the running boards. Went back and double checked everything. It appears the rear end is perfect but the front wheels could be moved forward about 3/4"-1" to be perfect in the wheel wells. So how hard is it to move the cross member? Currently it is welded in with about 8" of weld on each side? Is there an easy way/any way of doing this? The plan is to have a driving truck but also to show at local shows, after all it is still a competition for me. Still like winning more then losing. (just being honest). It is important to me that is looks good, it becomes a risk reward thing right now.
Marten

Sell it now and save yourself the disappointment . Impress yourself the rest is nonsense.

Marten · RICHMOND, ONT

OK so guys, I am not sure who you are or if you are trying to be funny or not.
Chips thanks for sticking up with me here. You are correct, that was the appeal of this project that the hard work was done. Thinking that altering the fender back may make the fender look to big in the front but good idea. I have seen one build where the guy moved the wheel forward about 4" and changed the fender that way, looked great.
Jeepster and slim, guys I could use some help and guidance, if we could keep the funny comments down at least for this build I would appreciate it. It is hard for me to tell the difference from someone being serious or sarcastic. I am sure all of you are way better and more knowledgeable then me, that is why I am asking for advice and opinions.