Thanks Parklane. I was told just now that Lucas Hot Rod oil is best. What do you think?

i bought an engine from Phoenix Engines down in Arizona,the sticker attached to the packaging stated Do not use synthetic oil,Zinc additive must be used or warranty is void.The engine is now 4 years old,no issues so far.I would use a zinc additive like ZPD or the Edelbrock zinc oil treatment.If the engine is not using oil a 10-30 oil should do the trick.Consumers Report did an oil comparison and found little to no difference between the major oil brands.

"RIGHT on Doug" Todays over the counter oils are made for the newer model cars & trucks & most have 'rollers" in them!! I've been using Lucas products for a long time, don't think it matters what brand additive, "JUST USE IT" RottellaT used to have Zinc in it but "think" they dropped that too ? Pete

33,000 miles Car sat around for twenty years, but has been driven the past two. 

napa ? won't a filter for any fe ford work ? wasn't the fe produced until 1976 ?

 

The oil posts are always funny     everyone steps up and professes what is best   

Just use a good oil and a good filter and change often.

 

That is not right.

Listen to the guys who suggested making sure it has the zinc or you will be replacing the cam and lifters pretty soon..new oils are for new cars that are totally different engines..

 

Also I remember pretty much all those fords 332,352,390 and others use the Fram PH8 I think it should be easy to find that filter even at CTC..or with the Fram number you can cross it other manufactures

fatchuk wrote:

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The oil posts are always funny     everyone steps up and professes what is best   

Just use a good oil and a good filter and change often.

 

That is not right.

Listen to the guys who suggested making sure it has the zinc or you will be replacing the cam and lifters pretty soon..

new oils are for new cars that are totally different engines..

 

 

        I  appreciate you input on the Zinc  

        I have a 66 396 (re-built ) that I drive in the summer (actually bought last year and have not driven it over 50 miles yet)  

        I will locate some oil with Zinc or get a additive   I must say though, I have never seen or heard, of any off my friends, ever replacing a cam because of oil 

Bob T wrote:

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A good quality oil [ Penzoil & Quakerstate are on sale regularly], zinc additive, and a quality oil filter [ Purolator or Wix ] has been successful for me. The problem with shell Rotilla is its for diesel engines and is missing some additives needed for gasoline powered engines. Too many documented problems with Fram filters. Just my opinion..

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         I agree     I like the Car Quest Blue line of filters made by Wix   

Zinc and flat tappet cams. cams are supplied from the manufacturer not hardened. look at any flat tappet break in spec and it will tell you on first start run the engine at 1500-2000 rpm continues for 5 to 10 minutes nonstop . This work hardens the surface of the cam, metal against metal and the cam should be coated with additive. This is the time the cam is going to work harden or fail its that simple. anything after that the only thing that will brake trough the hardened surface is dirt or hard crap in your oil and zinc won't help that. Most of the large players are offering nitrited cam's ( already surface hardened ). I've run full synthetic in a motor that hadn't been apart in 30 + years other then creating a few minor leaks because it cleaned out all the built up  crud It worked great . Another fact is you can't brake a motor in on synthetic because it won't allow the rings to seat. Ive yet to see any real proof that zinc makes any difference at higher levels after break in. In reality I think the hole oil deal has  partially  been the excuse for cheap cams made offshore like your phone failed because you got five drops of rain on it. In the end do what makes you feel best and if a 8 buck tube off additive gives you peace of mind its worth it.

Well the topic surfaces again and its no fairy tale about losing cams etc.Things have changed . Fat chucks post said it best.
I lost one 5 years ago and broke it in right. Three buddys who have been wrenching for years had cam issues all with teardowns. The best advice is from good engine builders and racers. The best builders wont even use a flat tappet anymore.Rollers only.
Run zinc in a treatment or buy the product (oil) that has it.
It totally sucks to have metal dust in your oil pan,oh yeah then the wallet gets lighter.

Guess I'll go out and get some additive from my trusty GM dealer. BTW, I would use a Fram filter on a wheelbarrow!

I use Rotella 15-40 and a bottle of Lucas engine break-in additive every oil change and a NAPA filter. Havn't had any issues. Used same in both 283 and 409.

In my daily driver with a flat tappet cam, I just use whatever quality oil is on sale because the additive packages are pretty much the same. After break-in, regular oil and filter changes are all that is needed. The level of zinc needed is much lower after the first 500 miles and you can use any decent oil. I am at 415K on an old school carb'd 305 sbc with its original cam still.

That being said, I do break in my engines using Shell Rotella 15W40, with a can of GM EOS. I rarely loose a cam on break in, unless I make an error. You have to be very careful when setting up and breaking in modern cams with very aggressive lobes. I use a set of break in rockers for those motors.

I have Amsoil in every vehicle I own including, all transmissions, differentials, and have for about 15 years..never had any engine , trans, or differential fail or give me a lick of trouble..I also have converted many of my customers to Amsoil..My shop truck..98 Dakota..has 425000ks never had onything but plugs ,cap and rotors..getting kind of raggedy but still runs perfect..Best oil youcan  buy in my view... But I do not use it my street-rod..I had to many oil seeps with cork gaskets..It will find any place there is any dirt and wash it away and it will leak ..It does not like cork gaskets ..I use the 15-40 rotella in my coupe with about 4oz of a product called motor-Kote..I have used it for several years in my coupe..also added to my trans and diff ..It's a great product too..

Your liking the current Rotella T 15W40 as opposed to 20W50 ?....

I run about 60psi oil pressure cruising with the 15-40 so I have never felt the need to with this engine to use the 20-50 ..I did use the 20-50 in my 36 a few years ago ..It always ran about 40 psi with the 20-50.. I have used Amsoil synthetic in a couple of my rods over the years but always went back to conventional because of the leaks with cork gaskets..Like a hundred little guys in the oil pan with Amsoil all using little scrub brushes to clean and clean and then the oil leaks out ..it was a pain ..

Rotella T is formulated for diesel engines and is missing additives necessary in a gas engine. G.M. E. O. S. is recommended for ' break in' of a new engine only [ at least that's what the can says'].

Bob T wrote:

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Rotella T is formulated for diesel engines and is missing additives necessary in a gas engine. G.M. E. O. S. is recommended for ' break in' of a new engine only [ at least that's what the can says'].

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 i believe gm is required to state that because of the effect zinc has on catalytic converters. that was the primary reason for eliminating zddp in modern oils. rotella t meets the american petroleum institute's standards for gasoline engines.