Was wondering what you guys may know about garage building..
I am in K-W area and am considering building a 24 x 24 garage with 10 foot walls, may use scissor trusses....
My question is about foundations vs slab...
I heard that for a 24 x 24 you can use a slab foundation and anything bigger you have to do a full foundation?......anyone in the area experience this or build a garage?...
cost is a factor of course and would do most framing etc myself....may consider a kit from Home Hardware but am told can do better buying stuff my self...was interested in the drawings they supply that could present for permits..
what can you guys tell me?....
any info would be helpful ...and if I proceed if anyone had any recommendations for a concrete guy!..
I am a CBO and have issued 100's building permits for garages. SOG foundations and footings 4' down with a perimeter wall to grade. The latter is good if you don't want the expense of the slab plus you don't need the sog engineered. You can also pour the floor after the bldg. is up and work in the shade and out of the weather.
But the best advice is what has been already mentioned...ask your local bldg. dept.
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if the time ever comes you can't see it, you can lay on your back and do it from underneath.
First check what they will let you build. I was restricted to 7% of my lot that allowed me a 16 x 32 configuration max.
I thought there were restrictions too. In the Falls here I applied to put up a 16x 32 garage on a back yard that was 40 ft. wide and 38ft deep and fully expected to be turned down. It turned out to be OKd with no conditions. I ended up with a nice garage and a 24x38ft lawn. I was surprised.
I built a 32x40 shop in the Guelph area in the early 2000s, and used scissors trusses for part of the roof for an on ground hoist. The thing that you will never regret adding is in floor heating.
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If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly.
I prefer slab, Rebar, rebar, rebar. Concrete thicker is better.
In floor heating, listen to the man ....... you will love it.
forget floor drains ( check by-laws probably not allowed)
Level the floor side to side, slight slope bach to front out the door ( if you wash stuff)
I installed a series of threaded anchors (welded to a submerged grid) for secure working and maybe for a hoist if you have it or know the foot print.
Smooth is good easier to clean.( someone talked me into brooming the floor for a non skid surface, he was an idiot along with his recommended finisher)
Pour at proper temperature (too cool is not good either)
Lots of drainage (gravel) do not dig(disturb the soil) or you will have settling problems.
Get a professional finisher.
Maybe consider conduits for air, electric or water.
minimum 10" perimeter thickness, 12" at hoist mounts for 2 post ( any with experience can correct that)
Slope entrances to reduce ice formation.
If you can afford it while they are there delivering, make a work pad out side.
If they have extra bury a drum, fill with concrete and a 4x4 tube for and outside interchangeable vise/anvil/bending devices far enough from the building to work with lengths of steel (24')
hope this is helpful, many minds = many ideas (or problems )
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
Thanks for all the great replies
:)
yes I know I will have to check with local building office but this is a property I am considering buying and will look into all before making an offer...however was just trying to see what others may have experienced in this area..
I will have a lift so thicker floor is a must...my buddy did his own in floor heat so I will also be doing that!...his is fantastic in the winter
For a floating slab, it needs to be 12" deep for 12" around the perimeter, and then can slope up to 6". If you go with in floor heat, attach the pex to your wire mesh, and place the mesh about in the middle of the 6" pour. You can have the floor temp different in some zones, if you use one area more than the other. I used a hot water heater with a quick recovery. If you don't shut it down in the winter, you can use water.
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If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly.
Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
I installed electric radiant heat in my floor. Initial up front costs are very low and if you use a setback thermostat to heat the slab during the lower cost periods, it is very cost effective. It is so easy to zone the floor. I installed a overhead gas heater to heat the air. The radiant heat can be set to heat floor only or floor and air. Contact http://www.britech.ca/ , they are the leading supplier of electric in floor heating systems in Canada. They can be very helpful in making a decision. I installed insulated foil which was up to code and much easier to walk on while installing the 6x6 wire, tying down the heating cable and pouring the concrete. I only turn on a zone when I am working in that area.
Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
Everyone has their own idea of what to do. I'm not saying I am right or someone else is wrong.
This is how I did mine. It works great with no cold areas.
I put down 2 inch Styrofoam with foil on both sides of it.
I didn't put any re-bar or mesh.
I used clips to attach the tubing to the foam. Lots and lots of clips.
It takes one foot of tube for every square foot of floor space. (30X40' = 1200 feet of tube).
IMO if you do not have rooms it is useless to have different zones.
I use a water heater for a heat source with no problems.
I started it up a little late last year. It was already cold outside so I brought the temp up slowly so I didn't burn out the water heater.
Also I did not put in mesh,, if I had of I would not connect the tube to the mesh. I would have to think the tube moves on the mesh each time the pump comes on.
I use to have a unheated 40X56 shop for six years with no mesh,lots of weight in it and no problem.
I forgot to say you should put in a short blind tube for the temp. sensor.
TMJ
-- Edited by toomuchjunk on Thursday 9th of July 2015 07:16:20 AM
I put down insulated foil that comes in a roll. It is about 1/4" thick, but it comes in various thickness. The reason I zoned is because it is for floor warmth only so I pick the quadrant I am working in.
