I want to sound deaden an outdoor wall from indoor(1/4" OSB). Also want to add some "R" value to the wall. (foam) My 2 ideas - install OSB on the wall, install foam then cover with drywall. or - install foam, cover with OSB then cover with drywall. Either way I will install vapour barrier first.
__________________
Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
The studs transmit the sound. I have built recording studios that must be sound proof. Depending on how much is in the budget and space limitations you have several options. Build a second wall inside the first placing the new studs between the old ones and offset about half a stud depth. Now the exterior sheathing is carried on one set of studs and the drywall on another. You can use a thin Roxul between each set of studs that add up to what ever R value you want and each layer covers the other set of studs adding even more sound insulation. After having built your second offset wall, you can also fill it with sprayed in foam in place of the Roxul, but it might be too dense and carry sound. Another sound deadener is using rubber mounted steel track mounted horizontally on the current studs. You then screw the drywall to the steel track. this system would probably work better with the foam.
The studs transmit the sound. I have built recording studios that must be sound proof. Depending on how much is in the budget and space limitations you have several options. Build a second wall inside the first placing the new studs between the old ones and offset about half a stud depth. Now the exterior sheathing is carried on one set of studs and the drywall on another. You can use a thin Roxul between each set of studs that add up to what ever R value you want and each layer covers the other set of studs adding even more sound insulation. After having built your second offset wall, you can also fill it with sprayed in foam in place of the Roxul, but it might be too dense and carry sound. Another sound deadener is using rubber mounted steel track mounted horizontally on the current studs. You then screw the drywall to the steel track. this system would probably work better with the foam.
Warren
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ is the best method if you do not want outside noise.
John
__________________
Reality; A test of Mind and Spirit And BODY. (`-`)
I use roxul insulation for r value and sound deadening. Its not itchy and is fire proof too!
Mr Samis is correct on the fire proof
Foam has to be covered (with drywall) because it is so flammable.
X2 or 3. I would use the Roxul before the Styrofoam boards because of the fire risk but the toxic fumes would probably kill you faster than the fire. Roxul has 2 or 3 varieties available that will do the job for you.
Henry being a carpenter, following wuga suggestion would be the best. For Roxal use the sound insulation unless you need the R value. Look the same but are made differently.
I wanted to used foam because of allergies and asthma. Pink is evil.
My "home" is a "double wide" gazebo built when R value meant nothing and hydro was cheap.
It has 2x4 framing.
I really do not want to build an additional interior wall, but that seems to be a solution.
I do not want to remove the present drywall or pink behind it, so can i frame the new wall in front of it ?
should i place a barrier on both sides of the new wall?
I am concerned with R value mostly, I can always shoot the dog to solve the noise problem
__________________
Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
Even with minimal insulation, there will be vapor barrier present. You can't put insulation to the inside of vapor barrier. A solution would be a product they only sell at Lowes. It is 2'x8' rigid blue insulation board that is channeled for strapping. Remove the drywall from the affected walls leaving everything else. Attach the rigid board to the studs using strapping and construction screws. There is no need for any framing. The 2" thick board has an R10 value. Put box extenders on any outlets and screw your drywall to the strapping. We are currently doing a community center using this method. This should actually cut down noise transmission as well. When you read R value, it is from a perfect world. It is all about air movement through the insulated area. The use of batts reduces the stated R value where it comes in contact with the studs, that is why spray foam is so superior, it bonds with the studs. When using rigid board, it is best to seal the joints with foam board caulking making the whole wall as one. Since the rigid board is also a vapor barrier, there is no need to add poly vapor barrier.
Warren
-- Edited by wuga on Wednesday 21st of October 2015 10:50:04 AM
Even with minimal insulation, there will be vapor barrier present. You can't put insulation to the inside of vapor barrier. A solution would be a product they only sell at Lowes. It is 2'x8' rigid blue insulation board that is channeled for strapping. Remove the drywall from the affected walls leaving everything else. Attach the rigid board to the studs using strapping and construction screws. There is no need for any framing. The 2" thick board has an R10 value. Put box extenders on any outlets and screw your drywall to the strapping.
Warren
This is interesting to me.
I did some research on the "best" way to finish a basement and found an article on Building Science Corporation website where they did several tests in order to determine the best way to finish a basement with the least likelihood of having mold issues in the future (I realize this particular post isn't talking about basements). If I remember correctly, they found that 2" blue board put right up against the cement foundation, then either attaching the drywall directly to the strapping (as you have stated) or framing a stud wall, filling the wall cavity with insulation bats IF a person wants to, then drywalling over the bat insulation (meaning NO sheet vapor barrier), then painting the drywall with a water permeable paint was the best way to finish a basement with the least liklihood of mold growth in the future. They state that there is no way to completely eliminate the possibility of mold in a finished basement, but that this method is the most likely to prevent mold growth.
I'm going to have to do a bit of digging for that article as it is saved on my old computer, but (again, if I recall right) Building Science Corp seems to think it's fine to insulate inside of blue board which means insulating inside the vapor barrier, not needed if the R value of the blue board is enough, but can be done if you are wanting more R value.
Any chance you could expand on your comment of "you can't put insulation to the inside of vapor barrier" as I have bought the blue board and are preparing to go ahead with finishing my basement?
I should add that Building Science Corp specifies no sheet type vapor barrier (between the bats and the drywall) as that would create a "mold sandwich" effect with having two vapor barriers and that they specify "water permeable" paint so that any condensation that may form between the drywall and the blue board, can dry to the inside of the basement. I am NOT a fan of mold and keep a dehumidifier in my basement, set to 50% as I understand that mold can't grow if humidity is kept around 50%.
Sorry if this is derailing this thread slightly as I'd love to have Wuga's input on this before I start.
I have certainly seen these schools of thought. I think most Ontario inspectors would frown on batt insulation inside a 'vapor barrier' which the rigid board is. You may get away with it in a basement since the outside of the wall is insulated with earth and does not get as cold as an upper exterior wall. Also, many of these articles have been written in areas in the US where they don't have the extremes of temperature. The purpose of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture in the home from permeating into the cold insulation where it condenses and forms ice blocks. I started using rigid board on basement walls in 1973 and have done so ever since. Various attachment systems have come and gone but there is no denying the board works, especially in basements and in older cement block houses that were strapped on the interior only to hold the lath. There are several types of edging on rigid board, some butting, some over lapping and some butting with channels for strapping. It may take a little longer, but I would highly recommend caulking each seam with rigid board caulk, comes in a blue tube and does not degrade the board. We have consistently found that 2" (R10) is sufficient in basements. Strapped right to the wall, it eliminates the need for framing since most basement walls present a challenge. There are several methods of running wiring. Many people doing their own wiring, they cut a channel in the board and stuff the wire in, I've actually seen this passed, just make sure you put plates where you are screwing the drywall. On the current project we are running the bottom row of board horizontally, leaving a 1" space all around the room and then running the remainder of the boards horizontally but butted. BX will be run in the channel between the outlets. We are using the channel specific board which uses 1x2 strapping. We will foam the BX channel and use 1x3 strapping to fill the wider gap. This has all been approved.
Wuga, thanks for your response. I don't have time to read it at the moment but wanted to just post a thanks before other posts move me too far down. I appreciate it.
One other thing. I don't know what you are doing for flooring, but I would highly recommend using a product called Platon from Home Depot. It is a dimpled sheet good that come in large rolls. It allows air to circulate under any flooring type and if there is a water problem, it keeps the flooring dry until any water dissipates. Grab a pamphlet and it explains the advantages and how to install it.
There are other products available for flooring in a shop, depending on what you are doing. I put race deck in my shop and love it. Does the same as Platon but no wood to deal with. Again this depends on how things are going together.
