Well its about time to start a build thread I think. The next project is already under way, but there is still lots to do. The car is currently in the disassembly process and there is still lots more to come apart.
I have steel waiting on order, and have the lower firewall, inner and outer rockers. floor, and a little piece for the door hinge area here already, and have inner and outer cowl assemblies, upper firewall, dash top and
will be ordering more soon.
Bought the car in hamilton, got a M20 transmision, 350 SBC which under closer inspection, seems to be a good score. Its bored out .030 over to 355. Thanks to JPB and Cat in the Hat for getting the motor going. John sold me doublehump heads and a carburator and threw in lots of gaskets, and Glenn sold me valve covers, intake, oilpan some hardware and pumps and headers. Goal for the motor is to get me going while I build a big block or LS based motor. We will see.
As far as the car goes, its a big piece of crap. But it was a complete crap, so that was a bonus. Came with full interior, and a extra seat. Found the matching seat to the spare so now I have a set to sell. Everything is basically there, except for the body, but thats okay, Probably going to be a 85% plus new steel build anyways.
Ill try and keep this updated, but work is busy right now,
Ill have to try and get pix on later today. We will see.
I got a bunch of parts for it already in terms of the body steel. I have the dash panel, upper fire wall, complete cowl assemblys both sides, the lower firewall with toe boards, inner and outer rockers (think they have kick panels too), and on order is the frame rails and trunk floor.
Frame rails should be in thurdsay, the floor had to be ordered.
Hoping that this week it will be on stands, leveled and have the subframe and rear suspension disassembled. Hopefully can blow the doors and trunk lid and maybe finish gutting the interior too, but with the hours im working, I doubt it. This week should be the official start, but no promises.
Heres some pictures of the sheet metal. I am very impressed, and so is my dad, not only just at the quality and thickness of the metal, but that everything is coated. when my dad did the last one, quite a few panels were bare steel from my understanding. Big bonus.
355 SBC
Have camshaft head bolts comp springs and pushrods coming for it too. Then I just need my heads done and it should be good.
Well the car is gutted now. There is a couple of interior trim pieces and the rear glass still has to come out but other than that, it is completely gutted now. Think im going to disassemble the rear end and possibly sub frame tomorrow to try and free up some space. Trunk floor came in aswell, frame rails and trunk dropoffs as well.
As of right now dont 100% know where to start cutting, as there isnt much good on the car to weld the new panels to. My dad will have a better idea on that type of work, thats for sure.
Glad to see you are "saving " a late model Muscle Car sometimes called a Hot Rod (by me)
getting a tired Camaro and adding new sheet metal is the way to go on a Camaro (as they are expensive to buy )
(Story) I have a friend with a 1967 327 4 speed Chevy II hardtop (since 1969) I advised him over the years to buy a southern shell and swap the driveline.... He protested and said he wants to keep his car "original" It needs front fenders, hood, inner fenders, rockers, floors, trunk, quarters, and rear tail section, as well as cowl rust repair but by replacing every body panel he thinks its original funny (sad)
Well the car is gutted now. There is a couple of interior trim pieces and the rear glass still has to come out but other than that, it is completely gutted now. Think im going to disassemble the rear end and possibly sub frame tomorrow to try and free up some space. Trunk floor came in aswell, frame rails and trunk dropoffs as well.
As of right now dont 100% know where to start cutting, as there isnt much good on the car to weld the new panels to. My dad will have a better idea on that type of work, thats for sure.
Wow ! That brings back memories. Stay on it, you'll have a fantastic car when you're done.
I know exactly where we are going to start. Inner and outer rockers then center floor section. Then we will tackle the upper and lower firewall and dash top and outer cowl panels.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
We all tried. He has to "practice" on a Camaro first before he can take on a Nova
This resto will only improve his skills required to do a Nova (since they are rotted out totally)The Camaro looks a lot better than some of the '66-'67 Nova's I have seen.
Just funnin' with ya' Ben. Good work & keep us informed
john
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Reality; A test of Mind and Spirit And BODY. (`-`)
Finally starting to make some progress on the car i purchased close to a year ago.
Really hasnt been much done to it through the summer. Been rocking the LS swapped third gen having a blast.
But we are right at the edge of the cliff right now. The point where things have the potential to go wrong real quick
We started by cutting the bottom of the door hinge pillar on the passenger side. Looked pretty rough, but fixable.
Then pulled the cowl off. Upon cleaning the flanges up, the complete piece I bought didnt fit quite nice, typical of the china junk. No biggie
We are deciding what to do next. The rocker panels on these cars are the main structure. The car is braced up good, but with nothing to attach new pieces to,
its hard to decide where to go from here. We are thinking of removing the cowl and the lower door pillar pieces off of the drivers side, and then from there, removing
the complete fire wall. We would be putting multiple locating points to flat points, bolt holes etc on the old metal. This part is crucial in the alignment of fenders, upper cowl panel, subframe, hood etc.
The experiance we have is more piece by piece style, not remove the whole front of the car at once and hope it goes back properly. We havent decided 100% what to do yet.
Ill post the pics of the mess...ill update on our decision and whatever work we get done in the future. Hopefully we can roll along a little better now that the winter time is coming.
Pieces just temporarily clamped in. not sure if you can see the space between the cowl assembly and the door hinge area flange or not, but its about 1/2'' out at the top
I commend you on your effort ....the car is a bucket . Hopefully all goes reasonably well for you in the resto with a minimum of surprises . Good luck !
When dealing with any early f/body you should always start with the rockers first.This give you structure to work with on a unibody car the rocker are the structure.
When it comes to one peice rockers v.s weld inner an outter together always go for the one piece.
Ifyou intended on putting a big block or just thrashing the car you should opt for the one piece convertible rockers that way you have built in frame connectors an added side safety just in case ya slide er into something...
Starting with the cowl first is a mistake.
Jus saying.
When dealing with any early f/body you should always start with the rockers first.This give you structure to work with on a unibody car the rocker are the structure. When it comes to one peice rockers v.s weld inner an outter together always go for the one piece. Ifyou intended on putting a big block or just thrashing the car you should opt for the one piece convertible rockers that way you have built in frame connectors an added side safety just in case ya slide er into something... Starting with the cowl first is a mistake. Jus saying.
I am interested in what you are saying so I will explain why we have done what we have done so far and would appreciate your view again.
We are aware of the structure of Unibody car and thus started with the inner rear 1/4's on both sides so that we would have something to attach the rockers to once the new pieces were installed. The cowl end of the car we had the same idea. Replace the lower hinge pillar so that we would have again some place to attach the rocker to. Once the lower hinge area was cut off we found more rust and pieces that would have to be hand made to fix. To access the area better we removed the cowll side panel. After accessing the damage and the need to sandblast the inner hinge pillar areas, it became apparent that there is nothing to attach the rocker panel to, inner or outer. You will notice that the cowl attaches to the inner rocker which actually comes all the way up and into the interior kick panel/vent hole area. This piece of the rocker attaches to the firewall(which is also going to be replaced(top and bottom). As of right now other than some pop rivits and a small section of floor, the rockers are attached to nothing. LOL So we have no strength, or really anything to attach to. At this point I am thinking we should brace it up, and cut the upper firewall, side cowls, lower firewall off and start with the firewall, then I will have something to start attaching stuff to, and still have access to sandblast and repair the hidden areas. If that makes any sense? Actually.....fixing this car doesn't make any sense! But we are doing it anyway.
Please view the fourth picture from the bottom in the post with the cowl pictures as it shows what I am trying to explain.
My friend a couple posts up summed it up best...."it's a bucket!"
-- Edited by slab on Thursday 10th of November 2016 05:53:00 PM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
When dealing with any early f/body you should always start with the rockers first.This give you structure to work with on a unibody car the rocker are the structure. When it comes to one peice rockers v.s weld inner an outter together always go for the one piece. Ifyou intended on putting a big block or just thrashing the car you should opt for the one piece convertible rockers that way you have built in frame connectors an added side safety just in case ya slide er into something... Starting with the cowl first is a mistake. Jus saying.
I am interested in what you are saying so I will explain why we have done what we have done so far and would appreciate your view again.
We are aware of the structure of Unibody car and thus started with the inner rear 1/4's on both sides so that we would have something to attach the rockers to once the new pieces were installed. The cowl end of the car we had the same idea. Replace the lower hinge pillar so that we would have again some place to attach the rocker to. Once the lower hinge area was cut off we found more rust and pieces that would have to be hand made to fix. To access the area better we removed the cowll side panel. After accessing the damage and the need to sandblast the inner hinge pillar areas, it became apparent that there is nothing to attach the rocker panel to, inner or outer. You will notice that the cowl attaches to the inner rocker which actually comes all the way up and into the interior kick panel/vent hole area. This piece of the rocker attaches to the firewall(which is also going to be replaced(top and bottom). As of right now other than some pop rivits and a small section of floor, the rockers are attached to nothing. LOL So we have no strength, or really anything to attach to. At this point I am thinking we should brace it up, and cut the upper firewall, side cowls, lower firewall off and start with the firewall, then I will have something to start attaching stuff to, and still have access to sandblast and repair the hidden areas. If that makes any sense? Actually.....fixing this car doesn't make any sense! But we are doing it anyway.
Please view the fourth picture from the bottom in the post with the cowl pictures as it shows what I am trying to explain.
My friend a couple posts up summed it up best...."it's a bucket!"
kewl .wasn't going to respond tonight... As life is Sh-it show these days an if one was to read posts when we first came here one might get an idea as to what why.! lol.
With that said. I felt i should at least respond 2nite an update later.(As waiting Suck's)
We shall call this "In 2 this life we are thrown"
The 17 th pic down on this thread: http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/t61920759/years-gone-by/ is what we're use to starting with.
18th pic down is what the charger basicly was as well..
many hard copy pic to back said up..
As the years go by I feel the need to share ..as we're a dying breed for sure!.
Better response soon..
keep teaching those young fella's that are eager to learn...
That way such = will keep us trying.
-- Edited by slab on Thursday 10th of November 2016 05:53:00 PM
Very impressive thread of work that has been done. But what I did notice(if I have the right picture) is a very scary looking sandblasted 1st gen Camaro skeleton with wood bracing. I also see a complete firewall that looks pretty clean and the cowl and what I can see of the hinge pillar area seem pretty solid. The inner rocker part that attaches to the lower firewall and toe board areas seems to still be there and in good shape. The inner 1/4's that Ben had to replace also (with what I can see) seem to be complete. Actually the lower section of the upper firewall is left attached and seems very solid as well. That car, in that picture in my opinion is a better starting point than what we are working with. So my plan of attack on that car would be different than the one Ben and I are doing now. We don't have a firewall that is savable or even the slightest bit of inner rocker etc that your project (on that day, in that picture) has. So while I don't disagree with what you said, I will say that every night mare is different and the solutions can vary. More ways to skin a cat than just one.
We will look really carefully again at this project before we cut anything else to see if putting the rockers back on makes good sense for this car. Thanks for your input and what I am sure you will add once you have more time.
slab
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
We have been off the job on this project lately due to many reasons but we also had to try and come up with a good way to hold this rust bucket while we rip into it. The car cradle and even the jack stands are not going to work because there is literally nothing under the car to hold it up. We have to take out some major structure to start repairing the car. Our idea is to make an adjustable rack that will hook to the frame rails in the middle of the wheel wells and the front will be bolted to the upper door hinge area. Front and back will be tied in together. I will be making adaptors to mount dolly wheel to the rack as well. I machined the feet to have a fine adjustment to level all four corners. This is all new to me and Ben but I hope we are on the right track.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
You got it Oldguy. Lunch time and I stayed late a couple times. Thanks for keeping me honest! LOL I usually try and pick threads that I have in my collection of programs to help things go faster. Just some cut and pasting. But sometimes I have to program from scratch which I do on lunches. I call it "practising" or "advancing my skills" when I asked the boss's about it. They are cool with it. The funny thing was that I machined a parking brake handle for the Nova and ended up using the same program to make a handle for something needed in the shop for a custom tool. They company basically got a free program written.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
We managed to get the upper firewall and the upper dash fitted. We will be getting the lower firewall fit next. Upper dash was taken back out at time of picture. We also had the passenger side cowl assembly fit on.
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Got your hands full with this one guys. Keep up the good work
Thanks Kurt. This is definitely the worst one I've ever done. The nice thing is Ben's not on any kind of time limit. He still has the 1987 and is having a blast with it. He has more plans for it for the spring and his little 4.8 should push that 87 Camaro into the 13's. His daily driver truck is sucking back the gas real bad so he just pulled that big diesel into the shop and we will be working on it now trying to get it on the road. He is in day release for his apprenticeship and has to drive 1.5 hrs each way to school once a week. He is hoping the big truck will be better on fuel than his dying small truck. We shall see. LOL
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Thanks for checking out the build. We are stepping away from this one for a bit while we get the diesel truck on the road. Ben has already done the rockers and floor panels on the truck and is starting on other patches. By the time the truck is done it will be time to get his 87 modifications underway. There is a hoist in our near future as well. But we will be back at it soon enough. No one has set a date for completion luckily....LOL
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Thanks and yes. The majority of the car (90%) will be new. Hoping by Sept. we will be starting on the outside panels.
Nice Sub in your avatar. I am heading to South Carolina this month to pick up an 86 c20 Suburban to make into a house/car trailer hauler. Truck will be completely redone with 5.3 and a Yukon interior. Or that's the plan anyway.
-- Edited by slab on Tuesday 3rd of April 2018 12:08:34 PM
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop
Any idea how much this body restoration will cost as opposed to buying a Dynacorn body off the shelf/in the crate?
"90% replaced" obviously means a LOT of panels, shipping, taxes, sandblasting, welding wire/gas etc.
Is there any savings to be had buying all the parts separately? I get the "because I can" train of thought, I get the "it's a learning experience for the youngster" train of thought, I get the "this way we can control the quality of assembly" train of thought as well, I get the "it's easier on the pocket book by doing a little at a time" train of thought too, I'm just wondering how it all works out in the end from a financial perspective.
That is one HELL of a lot of work and more than I'd care to tackle ... my hat is off to you and your son.
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Actually, in real racing ... it IS how fast you went.
A new body in the create is approximately last I checked, about $15000 U.S funds. Even a great exchange rate for now days and some taxes puts you over $20000 Canadian. You would still need a car to get parts from or deep pockets for all the things that don't come with the shell. Title costs etc. The steel Ben needs is probably around the $8000.00 range plus the cost of the car(came with title). Not including time and effort, he should be close to that number or maybe $25000 done and driving down the road. But that is just an educated guess. Mig wire and sand don't cost all that much. I doubt materials to get the car back to a complete shell will be $1000. That seems high even if I included gas for mig. Epoxy isn't cheap but even if I add in another $400.00. That is still under $10 K for a complete shell with hood and fenders and doors plus cost of the car. If you had to pay labour there is no comparison. Brand new wins.
I don't know if that helps but it's an answer. Lol
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slab----67 chevy II 2dr post and 66 chevy II hardtop