It might have some value if the block is an early 010, just for emission control reasons. That thing looks kinda messed up though.
My best guess would be you might get $50-100 just for the block IF, after removing the crank, pistons, rods, the bores look like they'll clean up (assuming it hasn't already been bored) meaning you take it apart before trying to sell it. As it is now, assembled and with crud (or whatever) jammed in there with the rods and crank, I think you'll only find someone willing to take it for free (as a gamble that it's workable or for scrap value).
Before going any further, I'd suggest you figure out what year the block itself is.
I sold a standard bore, two-bolt, 1969 350 block (just the block) for $100, a year or two ago on Kijiji.
I think they made the 010 from something like 71-81.
TMJ, it's seized, a 2 bolt main. I see pics. Where are you going with this ?
TMJ mentions "the big thing is when the block was made" most likely means he is looking at it the same way I did when I mentioned "if it's an early 010". Here's the reason why, the early engines had minimal emission controls on them, THAT makes this block desirable (somewhat) to some people IF it is an early production 010 block.
As I previously stated, I sold a 1969 dated, std bore, two-bolt block for $100 a year or two ago (on Kijiji). Bare block with main caps, nothing else.
There IS a market out there for early blocks so they do have value. That being said, the seller needs to find a buyer, and that depends heavily on where they live in Ontario. By that I mean, if you live in a secluded town of 2000, you may not find a buyer anytime soon ...... if you live in the GTA, you only need to find one person out of several million that wants it.
it really is worth just whatever the price of scrap is when you consider how cheaply a new goodwrench 350 can be bought. it's pretty well the same block but with 4 bolt mains.
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don't walk in like you own the place..........walk in like you hold the mortgage.
weren't the 0010 blocks a heavier block with the extra weight in the crank journals. i think i remember something about them being wanted for that reason.
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To be the real high nickle block you have to look for 2 stamping.. Under the timing chain cover, behind timing gear/chain on block you will need to see #'s 010 and 020 casted in... Not all 0010 blocks has those #'s and if not it's not the extra high nickle content..
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If its standard bore, its like worth tops $50 in that shape. If its a early pre smog block, you can sometimes get about $100 for someone who wants a non emissions motor.
Its going to need the pistons pounded out, bored, decked, and a trip through the derust tank at a minimum, so you are really rolling the dice. It may have cracks, when you take the pistons out, the bore may get damaged, etc. I pay about $20 for 350's like that and half of them just go right in the scrap bin and we may be able to save to crank and rods. I have been given several in that shape and many of them have freeze cracks in the water jackets from water getting into them and improper storage.
The good things are that the crank is still in it, and the lifters are still in it. Usually they main bores won't rust if the crank is still in it, and the lifter bore won't rust with the lifters in it. For a two bolt bolt, I would toss it if the main or lifter bores are rusty. An align hone costs more than getting a good block.
They made the 010 blocks 69-79 IIRC and they are stronger than the later lightweight blocks like the 207 which started in 1980.
