Very cool keep us posted.

 

Yea what Mike said

Cool, What are you using for a turbo and where did you get it from? 

 Any problems with the carb being pressureized or is it for this type of installation??

Good for you doing this 

TMJ

I am using a Garrett turbo GT38, iirc.
Right now I am running it at 7psi... Stock original 194 engine. No intercooler or meth... need to be careful I don't detonate!
Over the winter I'd like to add both and possibly increase to 11psi.
I'm running out of fuel after about 6 seconds of boost. I suspect low fuel pressure but have not checked yet.

Another interesting build.

HI ADAM > VERY COOL mod --- It should really wake up the 194 -- Now just imagine if that was a 292 instead of a 194 -- You would need bigger seat belts -- Good luck and keep us other INLINERS posted -- We need more Inlines -- They are very cool and easy to live with !! -- LATER -- DON / Fleet 51

dodgy canuck wrote:

---

The leather condom is a carbon fiber heat blanket. Doesn't fit the greatest, but with no intercooler... I need to keep the underhood Temps down!

---

 

 

If that functions as expected and it does keep the under hood temperature down, wouldn't that mean it is also driving the temperature of the turbo itself to stratospheric levels?  (which I would assume would drastically shorten the life of the turbo).  

A nice (low and stock-for-a-Camaro, easy to see over) cowl hood does wonders for removing hot air from an engine compartment.

-- Edited by chips on Tuesday 8th of December 2015 10:33:34 PM

Is your fuel pump or regulator boost referenced?

Very cool! Love the idea of a boosted straight six. Was thinkin the same thing for my 82 GMC shortbox. Just dont think its financially feaseable. So probably the boring V8 it will stay.Good luck with the upgrades.

dodgy canuck wrote:

---

I am using a Garrett turbo GT38, iirc.
Right now I am running it at 7psi... Stock original 194 engine. No intercooler or meth... need to be careful I don't detonate!
Over the winter I'd like to add both and possibly increase to 11psi.
I'm running out of fuel after about 6 seconds of boost. I suspect low fuel pressure but have not checked yet.

---

 blow through carb will drop 100° across the carb, so generally you dont need to  spray meth or have an intercooler. also you should run an boost reference fuel regulator, you want your fuel pressure and your boost pressure to be 1:1.

With the intercooler, I will be increasing boost to 11psi.
My mechanical fuel pump is modified for boost reference, but I am having an issue with fuel at the moment.
I seem to be running out of fuel after about 5 seconds of full boost. Not sure yet if my jets need increased or if I am over powering the fuel pressure and emptying the bowls.
Going to hook a fuel pressure gauge in and see what it is doing.

Rob-A wrote:

---

whats the fuel pressure at full boost? 

---

 

He doesn't know.  

 

I was guided to enlarge the atmospheric vent hole in the mechanical pump and install a boost reference line... I was told that under boost, this will increase the fuel pressure proportional with the boost. 

I've been lazy, and now the car is tucked away... didn't get around to checking what the pressure was doing under boost. 

-- Edited by chips on Wednesday 2nd of March 2016 09:43:33 AM

RacerRick wrote:

---

Going lean under boost is the quickest way to melt pistons.

---

 

X 2

I have acquired the front sub frame and support rails for my Nova. I just now came into a rebuilt mustang II rack for it as well.

Now I need the mustang II cross member and suspension. The cross member I will talk to Paul Horton about during the crawl.
The suspension, I think, will be a Fatman kit (surprisingly cheap)!

If all goes well, I've got a project for the next 'dark time' (winter).

Mwuhahaha! Maniacal laugh! Mwuhahaha!

I'm not sure welder series makes the control arms.
I look at Fatman for the hub to hub kits which are only about $400 US. Probably the cheapest I will find.
I think I'd rather buy the kit then mess around piecing stuff together.
Still looking into it at this point.

If the weather stays as nice as is said, I will pull it out of the garage and give it a go... see what I can find.

I had assumed that a stock 500 would be overkill for this application, which is why I never changed the Jets at all. I guess a few test runs will tell the tale.

Of course.

Intercooler 2.0 was a fail :(
I had it placed on the passenger side of the engine, parallel to the engine. Installed the hood scoops to direct air onto the surface of the intercooler. It heat soaked, big time, at lower speeds and cause pinging, even out of boost, because of the astronomic heat!
Removed the cooler and went back to the way it was before.
Version 3.0 is on its way. Fingers crossed for better luck!

Oh, and the addition of the intercooler created a 500 RPM lag over the non-instercooler version. So, instead of seeing boost at 3,000 RPM, it became 3,500! That's getting up there for my bone stock 194!

I pulled apart the 250 that is on the stand. Found something different... #1 main bearing, engine side, is almost completely worn to the brass(?) Not the cap side, though. Never seen that. Also, #5 rod bearing is the same. Worn on the rod side through to the brass, and not on the cap side. The journals all measure about the same. Less than .002" difference in them. All caps were tight. Wondered if the power steering in the donor car was putting too much stress on the top side of the crank.
With a quick hone, re-ring and bottom end bearings... Should be good as gold. Yea right.

air to air intercoolers need to be out under the bumper for lots of air flow
subarus got away with mounting them over the engine only because the engines are flat opposed and far away form the intercooler

if you want good cooling - buy a water to air intercooler setup - more than a few used ones on kijiji or buy new

always er on the high side of flow or hp rating on the intercooler ie buy an intercooler sized larger than you need and adapt the inlets down to your turbo and intake sizes. Pressure drop should never be more than 2%

an intercooler sized properly will increase your power all by itself, never mind that you can increase boost.
A water meth kit is only needed after about 8 lbs of boost on pump gas - if you have high compression and too much timing

ideally you need a boost retard for your ignition so it pulls one degree of timing for every pound of boost. MSD makes some relatively cheap ones - and again you might buy a used one. You want like 28 -30 degrees total timing for driving around, and about 12-18 degrees timing under full boost.  if you are only making say 8 psi boost then your timing can be higher under boost without detonation.

fuel - your carb will only handle 7 lbs fuel pressure without over running the float. You need one pound of fuel pressure added for every pound of boost added
your stock pump was marginal for supply on a stock motor. So an electric pump with a boost referenced regulator is for sure the only way to go. Your Holley is more than big enough for this application. - what you may find is tha the carb you have is not set up for boost  - meaning the power valve is no longer opening - and you are in fact running lean or out of fuel - the simple way to fix this is buy a power valve plug and throw the power valve away and jet up 8-10 sizes to compensate for the power valve being removed. The bowl vent needs attention too but I forget what needs doing there to make it function  under boost. if memory serves it is a rerouting of the vacuum passages so the bowl is not seeing boost - so at 8 lbs boost in the bowl  - and only 8 psi fuel  - no fuel gets in, and the bowl cant vent either

theres lots more - but this covers the basics that will get you where you want to be on such a mild build

-- Edited by Seeker1056 on Thursday 16th of June 2016 09:05:09 AM

-- Edited by Seeker1056 on Thursday 16th of June 2016 02:41:41 PM

-- Edited by Seeker1056 on Thursday 16th of June 2016 02:43:28 PM

-- Edited by Seeker1056 on Thursday 16th of June 2016 02:50:45 PM

smoking deal on the complete setup for water to air

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/city-of-toronto/water-to-air-intercooler-kit/1158984945?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Your turbo is a little big, but you should be fine, as you should be on the right side of the surge line on the efficiency map, but barely. A small GT25 or GT28, or even a T3 turbo would be a better fit.

Start with seeing if you fuel system will keep up, and then work from there. I think I see your car every time I go to my parents. They live on White Drive in Milton.

Fuel delivery appears to be solved. I can hold full throttle for as long as I need.
I was mistaken on which turbo I have... it's actually a GT3582. Still a bit big, but should work perfectly with the 250 when it goes in. Plus, I got an amazing deal on it!
I've been considering the ignition retard boxes... but am not sold on the fixed rate of retard. That said, for the $100 the one is asking... I'd almost be a fool not to!
I'm looking more toward the j & s safeguard unit as a knock detection/ignition retard.
I run ultra 94 all the time.
Don't have money for the air/liquid cooler. Even the used one a $400.

Rick - you're right... that is me. Stop by sometime.

Where are these unicorns, Rick?
I need to know!!!

Anything new with your project Adam?

Thanks for the update, your Nova has me curious.