Thought I would do a little update on what's happening to the Bantam this winter. Our best run last summer was 80 MPH @ 16 sec in the quarter. The car handled perfectly which is what we really wanted to find out. Now it was time to increase performance a little. The car has been quite dismantled and the remantling has begun. The ibeam had a little slop so I had that fixed.
These engines realy don't like to breathe so I have done everything I can to alleviate that. I have built an integrated intake exhaust manifold to get long runners for the intake. I now realize they are not long enough, so I am adding &" to the length. The headers are 44} running into 2 into 1 collectors. The collectors in the pictures are for alignment purposes only until the real units are ready. These 4 into 1 collectors are free to any one who can use them along with the 4 pipes for the other side of the V8. The header pipes will be shortened about 8" to fit between the frame and the steering arm once the engine has been installed.
Last year I ran 3 x Stromberg 97s but have decided to try the Rochesters as originally came on the engine. I had Lightspeed Mike plasma cut adapter plates that turned the carbs 90 degrees and built a linkage that emulated the 97 linkage. I never liked the pull down linkage that originally came on the motor. I have now mounted the carbs so the linkage is on the motor side and the fuel line is outside. Sorry the pics are a little out of date but you can get the idea.
I installed new axles and big brakes from Quick Performance on the Ford 9". We were creeping at the line but really I want to have plenty of braking at the far end. Shannonville is a pretty short track for a 1/4 mile.
I drilled and tapped the crank snout and install a damper with a retainer bolt and I installed a 3000 stall torque converter from Frank Lupo @ Dynamic Converters.
Last year the battery was first mounted under the frame at the rear and then inside behind the seat. Both locations gave us accessibility problems so we made a new enclosed battery box that is easily accessible and will have a shut off switch mounted on the lid so the system can be killed either from in the cab or from outside by the switches mounted on the rear of the car.
The front axle is now installed along with all suspension parts. New battery cables have been run, Stewart Warner oil and water gauges installed.
The head is currently being done , removing .125 from the face, recessing the larger intake valves, valve seat facings recut, the shrouding around the exhaust valve opened up, intake valve guide removed inside the intake runner, new valve springs and CCd chambers.
The ultimate goal here is to run 105 MPH @ 13 sec.
Still a long way to go this winter and I am also prepping Dog Spit to take to Deuce Days in Victoria BC.
Warren I have a question or two. Humor me as I'm not familiar with any rules that may apply.
I don't know what sort of cam you're running regarding overlap.
I realize you've used a pre-fab header to start, modifying it to suit on the exhaust side. You've done considerable head work too and it's obvious you're more than familiar with the dynamics so my questions are :
- would there be any advantage to building your own intake( with balance tube) that would orient the carbs as you wish but also allow the carbs to be staggered in height while keeping the intake runners the same length?
- would velocity stacks help with the intake charge?
I'm curious about these motors and love to hear from folks ( GM Dad too) who know their stuff.
I have changed the intake since the last posting. There is a formula developed by a couple of amazing engine builders who say divide 90 by the max RPM 90/5=18, so the runners from plenum to intake valve are 18". The plenum acts as a balance tube. The headers will be as close to 44" as possible. These two lengths are based on the speed of sound as that is how fast the gases run in both intake and exhaust. The 235/261 head is just about the worst breathing head in the world, so you want lots of runner speed to push and pull. Of course this is all hypothetical until we hit the strip. As for the velocity stacks, mainly you don't want restrictive air cleaners, but let's keep the sand out of the engine. I will post up a picture of the finished manifolds shortly.
Well, if we stay on schedule, the first run this spring should be the Armdrop May 22 and Shannonville maybe the weekends before and after. Hopefully it stays together and we will certainly continue to run at Shannonville all summer. Definitely want to do the ELTA bash Aug. 9-11. I am taking Dog Spit to Victoria for Deuce Days July 10-28 so that cuts in a little. Hope to see you guys out at some of these meets.
Geez Warren, you make my to do list look pretty short and simple. Amazing.
no guff on the size of the to do list cuddles, wow. now throw in the raising of a house to put a new foundation under it with major alterations somewhere in the middle of all this build, s.o.b.
my get up and go, got up and went a couple of years back and i am still trying to find where it went.
Things have come to a standstill with the Bantam. We haven't been able to race this year because of a damaged head. A new one is being built and hopefully will be ready in the next week. We want to go racing, especially at the ELTA summer bash and then head over to the HAMB drags in Missouri. The car has been featured on two posters of which we are proud.
Well, since the last post, I have decided to skip the HAMB drags. Just too expensive for a one day event. I was supposed to be at Deuce Days this past weekend, but my wife broke both wrists and other complications compounded life, so I stayed home. Thank goodness she is well on the way to the mend. I got my head back last Friday and have been working non stop on the Bantam. Installed the head which allowed me to mount the intake and exhaust, hook up oil lines, relocate the oil filter, install new trans cooler lines and get all the wires etc. sorted and installed. I had previously shown a picture of the new battery box. It is now wired with a safety shut off switch and hasp. All the remains is setting valve lash, installing the new distributor and bolting the seat back in. OH! and maybe getting it to run. I want to hopefully get some runs in up at Shannonville before the ELTA.
I just bought this 1962 Studebaker Lark to use as a tow car for the Bantam. Runs like a dream but some things will happen to it. The 259 V8 is strong, but will probably put a T5 in.
You have to join the parent club before you can join any chapter which is what I did. I have now looked at both the Hamilton chapter and the Ontario chapter which is out of the Kingston area which is where I am. I don't think I will make any decision until later in the year. I will keep an eye on what each chapter is doing.
If you need any Studebaker specific parts for the old girl,my jobber in Campbellford (Trent Hills Auto ) has a better stock than anyone outside the
guys in Southbend Indiana.. Russ Carnes is very knowledgeable in Studebaker and can be reached at 705-653-3999 . He stocks thousands of pieces for Studebakers...
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Buying selling and trading garage toys and big kid stuff.
Continuing with the Studebaker, I want to paint it with a single stage flat sage green this winter. I needs rockers but little else. I don't have a fortune to invest but does anyone know of a shop that will paint old cars and at a reasonable cost? I am willing to travel.
What are you running for an engine?? I am changing the Henry J back to an inline 6 292 the way my uncle raced it in the 60's and 70's. Trying for 375-400 hp if its possible....:o)
I am sticking with the 259 V8, backed with a T5 and topped with a Fitech efi system. I intend to rebuild the engine this winter. When Studebaker ran out of their engine castings, they started delivering cars with McKinnon build SBC. This is a possibility with the factory adapters that are available but I am not an SBC fan. I do like inlines and that should make a very interesting car with the 292. Way to go. and I think 400hp is very possible.
I have finished building the intake/header setup. The intake runner is 18" from the base of the carb to the intake valve. According to Smokey Yunick, this is the perfect length for this engine. The exhaust runners are 42" running into two dual collectors. The carbs are Carter YH off a 1954 Corvette. They are rebuilt, I am looking for screens for them, but Carter filters etc are hard to find. I fabbed up the linkage to fit the gas pedal cable. I have since installed a proper return spring back to the mounting plate. Because of the length of the intake runners, I installed squirters to start the engine. Will probably run Methane for that. There is a small fuel cell connected to an electric fuel pump which is activated by a momentary switch in the dash panel.
I will try to find a copy Warren. Thank you for letting us know. I found fine screens meant for food at the dollar store. Maybe you could make them work for your Carters ? Could be worth looking at since you can work wonders with pretty much anything on an engine.