Are you looking for a cheap oil or do you want a good oil with zinc for a new engine build? I buy Brad Penn with 1500 ppm of zinc from W O Stinson. They charge $71.99 for a 12 quart case. (Ask for the good price) They are in Ottawa, Pembroke, Arnprior, Kemptville and Napanee.
i use rotella t 15/40 with a 16 oz bottle of delco e.o.s. per 5 litres. use that in the vette, the chevelle, the racecar and my little kubota backhoe. t.s.c. store often has the 5 litre jugs on sale.
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If you are running a flat tappet cam, you should still run Rotella or Delo. They are both good. The reason for it is that diesel rated oil still has much more zinc in it than passenger car rated oil.
From every forum I am on......they say the zinc has been removed from all diesel oils.....buy Bradd penn, VR1 I believe is a zinc oil or add an additive...
I just called Shell Technical and they tell me they have not changed the amount of zinc in Rotella T. He also told me the amount of zinc there was but by the sounds of him he is not in North America. So after the second time not understanding him I thanked him and hung up.
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i did a little snooping and delo is by chevron who also own the texaco ursa brand which was/is one of the top 2 oils in the truck diesel world beside rotella t. depending on the age of the tractor you won't find any oils in canada with enough zinc in it if it is much older than the mid to late 70's but any zinc is better than no zinc. like wuga i use brad penn in the one motor, 428ci, in the 67 that i am fairly sure is the original and rotella in everything else including 2 older massey's. for the 15 or 20 hours a year, maybe, that they get on them and a oil change every spring i am comfortable with that. i did a valve job on the 65 a couple of years ago so it probably doesn't need the higher zinc count anymore.
i have never been a fan of additives but the e.o.s. that shaker mentions will probably fit the bill. it will probably boil down to how many hrs and how hard or how long are you going to live. i am pretty sure my old massey's will be in my sale for all the hours they get put on them. there won't be any one oil or additive available to be a cure all replacement for the zinc, in canada probably. it is a personal choice sort of thing. do whatever you feel comfortable with knowing you are trying and drive on.
in answer to your original ?, no, i have never used delo. i have seen it around for years and if it is a equivalent replacement for ursa it should help. i buy rotella t in bulk for every thing here, except the 67, and the trucks at the shop and i am comfortable with it. it cost a couple of cents more for the rotella but i am comfortable. good luck and be comfortable whatever way you go. there is no cure all i don't think. rick
I see this topic is nearly a year old but it needs an update. Older gasoline engines with OEM-style flat tappet valve trains, Starburst oils (ie meeting ILSAC GF-5, 4, etc) will work OK. However, the ZDDP levels of Starburst oils are limited to 600-800 ppm of phosphorus (API SN & SM) to avoid poisoning the emission system. Phosphorus is the part of ZDDP that does the antiwear work. See Valvoline FAQ 2. See API - Which oil is right for you?
Dual-rated Heavy Duty Engine Oils (ie, having diesel rating and gasoline rating) such as API CJ-4/SM allow up to 1200 ppm of phosphorus. The latest diesel oils now have to meet API CK-4, which also has a 1200 ppm limit on phosphorus. However, oils that meet both API CK-4 and API SN are limited to 800 ppm of phosphorus. Because Ford has found that they've had wear issues with insufficient phosphorus, they've introduced specification Ford WSS-M2C171-F1, which requires the oil to contain 1000-1200 ppm of phosphorus.
Regarding Delo vs Rotella, 10W-30 Delo XLE CK-4/SN , the spec sheet shows that it contains 760 ppm of phosphorus, while 10W-30 Delo XLE CJ-4 contains 1100 pm. Shell doesn't list the phosphorus content of its products but Rotella T4 10W-30 meets both CK-4 and Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 but is not rated for API SN.
I'm using Rotella T 10W-30 CJ-4/SM in my slant six and will be switching Petro Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 after I run out. Duron SHP is rated CK-4/SN but also meets Ford WSS-M2C171-F1. It's better to get an oil formulated by the manufacturer with the right additive package than mixing your own.
HDEOs already have plenty of ZDDP in them. Do not add more ZDDP because phosphorus levels levels greater that 1400 ppm cause more wear and can lead to camshaft spalling. See Engine Oil Myths - GM TechLink.
If you are taking the time to do some research on Motor Oils, take some more time and go to "Bob is the Oil Guy" read Oil 101. Find the discussion of Rockwell Hardness Tests performed on SBC camshafts that the lobes had worn off prematurely.
20w50 Oil was never run in engines that had to run Catalytic Convertors. Therefore 20w50 has higher Zinc and phosphates. Any 20w50. If you elect to run 20w50 remember to warm up engine to allow oil to warm up and flow. Running a 0w30 or 5w30 oil allows oil to reach every point that requires oil, to receive oil sooner, upon start up. Make sure you run an oil that has adequate Zinc & phosphates. The BEST way is to run an oil that has higher Z. & Ph. There are several to pick from. DO NOT extend oil change intervals. Stick to 2500-3000 miles. KEEP Your receipts and record oil change intervals and follow instructions from Oil Manufacturers. Do NOT cheap out on this matter. That WILL cost you $$$.
Today's Price for the LOWEST $ SBC Cam Kit at Summit Racing is $76.99, U.S. Oldsmobile= $139.29 U.S. Plus gaskets, OIL CHANGE, coolant and shipping. Flat rate for R&R SBC camshaft used to be about 4hrs. Do the math. A few more bucks for the CORRECT Oil and filter will go a long way towards the cost of a cam change. Not even discussing where the metals filings from the failed camshaft went. My Oldsmobile HAS failed a cam, now idles at 5 psi and Oil Pressure peaks about 25-30 psi.
NO The government did NOT inform the public that they had ORDERED the Petroleum Companies to reduce Z. & Ph levels back in the Mid 70s. That was the beginning of the Chevy "Soft Camshaft" era. Bob is the Oil Guy discusses how the "soft Cams" is NOT True.
My Olds needs the engine replaced. My T bucket SBC also failed a cam and I already changed that engine. Both failed the same summer. Not happy, but I am better educated now. Also you can go to HotRod.com and research this.
the Kid.
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