Twenty some odd years ago he used to sell MII crossmembers that were from I think Alberta. He then started building his own. I have used both in Ford 35-40 frames. Paul has been into MII so long that he is right on top of the pro's and con's of MII. If I were going to install another MII it would be one of his Welders Series. That being said I would think long and hard before I took out the straight axle (assuming that what it has). Just my personal opinion but I don't like FATMAN crossmembers. The tophats that the upper bolts to should be on an angle and theirs are flat.
The problem with M2 front ends is that the geometry was designed for 13" wheels with zero offset rims and skinny tires. When people complain about bump steer, what they are actually experiencing is too much scrub radius because they are most likely running wide, larger diameter tires and the KPI won't be correct anymore. An M2 front end will never have as good of a "feel" as something like a Crown Vic front clip IMO.
That's why I said I would think long and hard before I changed it road fell is not the best. If it has some other oddball POS front end then yes change it. Pretty well everything else is too wide unless you can narrow it.
Right now the '37 has an original beam axle with disc brakes and a split wishbone kit.
I bought a new 4" dropped axle and put in new kingpins, etc. It is gathering dust.
But while I was at Deuce Days I saw several mid '30's cars with Mll suspension, which got me thinking.
So....should I install the new 4" drop axle? Or...?
Right now the '37 has an original beam axle with disc brakes and a split wishbone kit. I bought a new 4" dropped axle and put in new kingpins, etc. It is gathering dust. But while I was at Deuce Days I saw several mid '30's cars with Mll suspension, which got me thinking. So....should I install the new 4" drop axle? Or...?
After you put the dropped beam in it what about the rear end ?? The front is going to be a lot lower. I originally bought and installed a C.E. bolt in parallel kit. Installed it, I took it out and sold it. Installed a bolt in Posie's parallel system. The Posie's wasn't cheap but made it sit real good. C.E sit too high most guys install a C.E. kit have lowering blocks in there too.
The car was built around 1985 in Niagara Falls.
It has a Camaro rear end, so I'm told, with parallel springs.
It is probably sitting at stock height. I will have to lower it.
Maybe remove one leaf out of the spring and/or lowering blocks.
I'll do the front end first and see how it sits.
Thanks for your help.
Judging by the whitewalls, the tires are up into the fenders. His tread seems to be narrower then yours bringing the wheels further into the front fenders. I think if you drop your front end 4", your tires will hit the lip of the fenders. take a stick or level perpendicular on the front and rear tires and come down 4" from each lip and see if it touches front or rear. When the back end is dropped, you should still have a finger width between the side if the tire and the inner fender well to account for sway. I see that on the other car. The front wheels will have to be able to turn fully without hitting the front fender lip. Love the car and it could use some lowering but 4" worries me without a whole lot of work.
My brother put a 4in dropped axle in his 40 coupe ,5x14 wheels,650 bias ply ,rubs the fenders. Raised it 1in,helped but still rubs. I think a lot of guys just don't admit it. Going low on a fat fendered car without problems is difficult.
