I recently swapped an old and dirty Holley 2 barrel for a new tri power along with a new intake manifold. But the initial reluctance I felt when I stepped on the throttle remains pretty much the same. The car is hesitant to start though I am told it should turn over easily with a turn of the key. And when driving, if I slow down or stop, that initial hesitation akin to a stutter remains. It is a 1966 Ford 289. It may not be relevant but the 12 volt battery is new but somewhat small as it is the only one that will fit within the confines of the frame. I am having the starter tested today. Any thoughts may prove helpful.
Go over all your grounds Jim. Battery to frame, block to frame, etc. Use welding cable from battery to solenoid and starter if the battery is remote. Make certain all the contact points are clean and secure. Also, go over the distributor top to bottom. Make sure there's no excessive play in the gear, check the roll pin that locks the gear on the shaft, new points rotor, cap and condensor, see that the plate the points mount on is secure, that sort of stuff.
Agreed check the timing chain. Its funny because at Saturdays cruse I was talking with an old mechanic friend about this very problem I used to have on an old Mopar standard and even on a Mini I used to own . He asked if they would start with a push but not on the starter . Yes I said, Timing chain he said Mopars famous for that problem. May be worth investing in a new chain . Ed
-- Edited by flatblack55delivery on Wednesday 9th of September 2020 07:05:44 PM
Could try pulling the coil wire off, if it turns over easier then its timing related. Also, did you say it hesitates on accel also or just when starting?
I pick up the starter today. The gentleman at FOXON said it was fine but needed a little cleaning. With the old carb, it always hesitated from a stop or if I slowed to make a turn it would hesitate when I tried to accelerate out of a turn. I haven't had the car off the stands since I put on the new intake manifold and carbs.
Thank you everyone. I wrote all your input down and will see what Bill says. I remember him wondering about the timing chain. The points are pretty new.
Keep in mind, the vibration balancer sometimes spins a bit with age. The timing marks you think are zero are actually retarded so the timing gets set way advanced. If it cranks better with the coil wire off, this might be the problem.
Keep in mind, the vibration balancer sometimes spins a bit with age. The timing marks you think are zero are actually retarded so the timing gets set way advanced. If it cranks better with the coil wire off, this might be the problem.
Try this first. Very simple to do.
How much gas in the tank when slow down, turning corners hesitations are occurring?
Bill took into account the timing mark and balancer with age. I think he allowed for it.
As for gas in the tank, it seemed to hesitate regardless but good point. I suspect it is/was a number of separate issues (possibly 2 or even 3) that makes a solution a bit harder to pin point. One of the issues and perhaps it is pertinent, was that I discovered that I can't use just any battery. I discovered yesterday that the battery I have in the rod is probably made for a Honda Civic or something small with 4 cylinders. That was why the battery is so small. And when I replaced it, I didn't know and bought another the same a week ago. Now I learn that an 8 cylinder needs a bigger battery with more cranking power so I have to buy another new battery now but maybe starting the ride won't be an issue anymore. So far this year, I bought a new battery for the truck I sold (so it would sell), my lawn tractor, my wife's car, my new truck and this will be the second one for my ride. I can't be accused of not supporting the local economy. On the up side, I am learning.
I'd do a compression check!! Had this problem with my 409 and after comp. check found 1 cyl. "down" turned out a exh. lifter had pumped up and "stuck"!!!! replaced lifter & re set valves and stutter was gone.
__________________
I can only please one person a day, Today is not your day!!Tomorrow doesn't look good either !!!!
On the mark dualquadpete. I've got one cylinder down (#4). Going to check the valves later today maybe. Hoping it is just something with the valves.
Spent yesterday trying to get the idle to stay down on the Strombergs. I added a bolt a bit further back on the intake manifold to hook the two Stromberg springs to but they don't seem to be strong enough for that last little bit of pull to get down to the idle setting. So I made a bracket forward of the arm and tried hooking another spring to the upper part of the arm as well but - you guessed it - that won't work. If I put my foot on the peddle, it just rips off the third spring. What I can't understand is that with all new parts, I would think this should set up pretty easy ? I can't figure out where the resistance is. The cable is just slightly relaxed enough to keep the idle running fast.
On the mark dualquadpete. I've got one cylinder down (#4). Going to check the valves later today maybe. Hoping it is just something with the valves.
Spent yesterday trying to get the idle to stay down on the Strombergs. I added a bolt a bit further back on the intake manifold to hook the two Stromberg springs to but they don't seem to be strong enough for that last little bit of pull to get down to the idle setting. So I made a bracket forward of the arm and tried hooking another spring to the upper part of the arm as well but - you guessed it - that won't work. If I put my foot on the peddle, it just rips off the third spring. What I can't understand is that with all new parts, I would think this should set up pretty easy ? I can't figure out where the resistance is. The cable is just slightly relaxed enough to keep the idle running fast.
I have 2 Stromberg springs running off the bottom of the arm and yesterday added a 3rd spring to the top of the arm and hooked the other end around the fuel intake going into the 1st carb and finally I have a decent idle. A lot of resistance on the gas peddle but I guess I'll get used to it. And now that I have a proper size battery (800 ca or cca - I forget which) everything seems to be much better with start up. I just have to finish assembling a manual choke. It seems to help for the 1st minute or so. Thank you everyone for helping !
you will get use to the stiff springs and they will stretch a bit before too long.
-
your right ed, good thread but it can't be over yet, lol, we still have to hear why the compression is down on the one cylinder and how much it was down, and why. inquiring minds need to know. lol
I am taking my ride to a guy in Young's Point to work on the cylinder repair. We did a compression test and all the cylinders were at 150 except for one cylinder at 74. The timing chain was a bit loose but not much. Good to know the springs will stretch a bit. I'm really pushing on the pedal but I guess a lot of people here do that a lot. hahaha
I am taking my ride to a guy in Young's Point to work on the cylinder repair. We did a compression test and all the cylinders were at 150 except for one cylinder at 74. The timing chain was a bit loose but not much. Good to know the springs will stretch a bit. I'm really pushing on the pedal but I guess a lot of people here do that a lot. hahaha
is this guys name Dean, just curious is all. if it is the same guy he knows his stuff.
you are in good hands with him on head work, he knows his stuff and is good at it. say hello for me, it's been awhile. lol tell him rick in belleville says howdy. he built a 454 up for me for my chevelle 10 plus yrs ago and it worked real well. he built and stroked a 351 up for a bud down here to put into a beautiful black 67 comet g-t car. they got 375 hp out of it and still quite street-able. nice car
I will try to remember to mention you to him Rick. We did a compression test and it looks like I have a burnt valve. I might take it in in the Spring. Or get one summer of riding if next summer is good and then take it in. Nice to know that he comes so highly recommended. Take care.
