Project WTF -Rat Rod Coupe- The Build!

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

RE: Project WTF -Rat Rod Coupe- The Build!

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

janies dirty 37 wrote:
Good on ya Dave.
Looks great.

Thanks Jan, I love it.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Nice work dave shame you couldn't Of just moved the frame back at the top of the kick up then your radius arms would of lined up with the bottom ... but then you would of been faced with moving the motor mounts and so on . Its all good , no better way to learn then what you are doing now.

I think it pretty well impossible to run a true ackerman with the tie rod forward anyway. the angles just wont work

-- Edited by slim on Saturday 29th of March 2014 09:15:19 PM

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

slim wrote:
Nice work dave shame you couldn't Of just moved the frame back at the top of the kick up then your radius arms would of lined up with the bottom ... but then you would of been faced with moving the motor mounts and so on . Its all good , no better way to learn then what you are doing now.

I just didn't want to mess with the strutural integrity of the frame itself, especially at the kick. It's a great kick, very strong and neat.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

I hope you plan on driving that thing East of TO this summer !!

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

hemi43 wrote:
I hope you plan on driving that thing East of TO this summer !!

hahaha, this summer, yeah right.

Hopefully next summer it will be ready for croozing. And yes, I'll bring it over toronto way.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Radius rods time...

I'm going to cut a diagonal down the existing brackets that Glenn made..

so I can do this...

this not only looks neat, it adds even more support to the kick. I'll tidy it up before I paint it

Radius rod back on

other side done

Put the rad uprights back on and positioned the rad. Might bring it up an inch, but the shell is where I want it.

One more shot to finish the night

Tomorrow I intend to notch the back of the frame just below the driveshaft.

fastchevy · NORTH BAY, ONT

looking good Dave!

123pugsy · MARKHAM, ONT

Nice shots Dave.

Looks good.

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

That will be much closer to your rendering Dave, just confused on why it wasn't scienced out before the original frame build? confuse For what it's worth, I like the shorter version!

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

I agree with Fordy Acres, car looks great shortened.

Playin Hookie · HUNTSVILLE, ONT

Much better. You're bringing it to life.
So awesome.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
That will be much closer to your rendering Dave, just confused on why it wasn't scienced out before the original frame build? For what it's worth, I like the shorter version!

As a newby to all this, it was difficult for me to know what the dimensions would be at the frame building stage. Glenn put some metal together and asked if that's what I wanted, and since I didn't have a clue I just nodded, lol.

What I have noticed on my original rendering is, the engine is way bigger that it should be, hence the rad is also too far forward.

I also have a design change in mind with regards to the exhaust pipes. They look pretty, but I'd get fed up with the smoke and noise pretty damn quick.

JohnnyBgood · ST CATHARINES, ONT

Nice Dave. Raise the back of the body up to give er a rake and your golden.....eh

Playin Hookie · HUNTSVILLE, ONT

JohnnyBgood wrote:
Nice Dave. Raise the back of the body up to give er a rake and your golden.....eh

I totally agree. I know the "current" look is as per your rendering but to me the wheels should follow the wheel well. I see them way high and now way low and the wheel well arch of the quarter just seems to cut the flow being in misalignment to the circumference of the tire. I did one once that I chopped the quarter apart and raised the arch to get it right so I could keep the roof line low and not get too much rake. This meant adding two inches to the bottom but it was worth it. Not sure with how little "beef" there is in that quarter you can follow that approach though.

Just jack the back up until the top of the tires is inline with the arch and step back and see the difference. Worth 10 minutes of your time just to see. Then you will know for sure.

As per your exhaust, I hear ya. The pic looks awesome but the reality is you will have CO poisoning after the first ride! Maybe the same pipes just swapped down, that way you get to create a dust cloud everywhere you go.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

I was going to cut out the wheel well panels anyway, so I can follow the actual wheel lines

427CARL · CLINTON, ONT

I love it what color are you painting it ? biggrin

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

427CARL wrote:
I love it what color are you painting it ?

was thinking of a matt brown for the body. Hammered brown for the frame and block, and maybe have some chrome here and there. Front shocks are chrome, so maybe have the rear lights brackets in chrome to even it out.

janies dirty 37 · SOUTH RIVER, ONT

That would be stunning Dave. Saw one done in a matt brown last year and couldn't look at much of anything shiny the same way.

However you decide to paint it or not paint it.....it will be yours. And exactly what ya want.

Gazoo · BADEN, ONT

What happened to the "wish list"?

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

I'm probably the last to find out but incase I'm not,, you can buy tintable tremclad now.
A friend of mine had it tinted to match the paint on his 60 year old car
TMJ

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Gazoo wrote:
What happened to the "wish list"?

"Some People" were abusing the signature area, so it got reduced to 100 characters, lol.

I intend to edit my first post to include an updated list, with what I need, and what has been kindly donated.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

toomuchjunk wrote:
I'm probably the last to find out but incase I'm not,, you can buy tintable tremclad now.
A friend of mine had it tinted to match the paint on his 60 year old car
TMJ

Ok, I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.

Please tell me more.

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

Tremclad is a "rust" paint that is available at Canadian Tire, Home Depot, etc.

They sell it in spray cans as well as in litre cans (and a few colours in the gallon cans). It's a LOT cheaper to buy it by the litre, thin it and spray it than it is to buy the spray cans. You can probably paint your car for well under $50. A lot of people like the stuff, a lot of people say it shouldn't be used to paint a car. They also sell primer too. I am a fan of it myself.

Canadian Tire has it in the paint section, not the automotive section. You really should drop in and see what they have to offer.

flatblack55delivery · PORT HOPE, ONT

I have had many cars with a rattle can paint job over the years. No way I can afford a pro body job and paint. For me it works on my driver quality 20ft ers. Lots of colour choices and comes in flats and shinies. No big deal if you change your mind on colour you can change it in a weekend. The newer cans have a wider fan like pattern so gone is the old round pattern that led to the tiger stripe affect. If you have the means for a pro job thats fine but with a little work and proper lighting and like D.B. $50 you can have a passable(to all but the snobs)paint on your ride to enjoy the summer. Ed

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

awesome, thanks guys, I'll go check out CT

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Notch time..

as you can see, when I jack up the frame, the rear diff rests on it, so if I drive over a dip and the suspension goes dow, the drive shaft will hit it

it's times like these I wish I had a plasma cutter

got it done eventually.

Glenn gave me a piece to fill it in

welded and cleaned up. I'm pretty pleased with the outcome

much better...

Normal ride height:

Jacked up to simulate a dip or pothole in the road (wheels go down into the road)

Next job....

Front shock mounts. I'm going to make them from scratch.

-- Edited by Dave Scott on Wednesday 2nd of April 2014 06:44:36 PM

jarvis1 · COBBLE HILL, BC

Could you have removed that crossmember and welded it above the yoke?
It looks a bit too close where it is now.

MANCAVER · info@mancavestuff.ca

I think he has the frame jacked up and that's the travel limit.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Mancaver is correct.

The first shot of the completed section is normal use, the second shot is jacked way up to as far as the shocks would allow on a dip in the road.

JohnnyBgood · ST CATHARINES, ONT

What did you use to cut the tubing????? a beaver? ...nice job of finishing the beaver bites though..looks good...eh

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

JohnnyBgood wrote:
What did you use to cut the tubing????? a beaver? ...nice job of finishing the beaver bites though..looks good...eh

Pretty sure he used his William Wallace sword , Nice job Dave . finish looks great!!!

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

JohnnyBgood wrote:
What did you use to cut the tubing????? a beaver? ...nice job of finishing the beaver bites though..looks good...eh

lol, yeah, Justin Beaver

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

Dave Scott wrote:
Mancaver is correct.

The first shot of the completed section is normal use, the second shot is jacked way up to as far as the shocks would allow on a dip in the road.

Has pinion angle been set?

If it hasn't, it could get closer when you set it (could also move farther away too).

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

I'm a long way from settings DB.
I need to get all new bushes in the radius
Rods, I have temporary height adjustable coilovers
Which are currently set at half way, and I might
Need to raise the engine a bit too.

The great thing about this project is EVERYTHING is
Changeable.

I'm finding this easier than any "modern" car project.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Front Shock Mounts

I made a cardboard template, loosely designed around a standard Speedway mount. I still had a big chunk of steel leftover, thanks Kev

Time to get the Beaver cutter out

Lots of grinding later..

Made sure it was right before proceeding

Used my trustly hand drill to make some holes. I really need a drill press, lol.

Lined it up with the shock

when I made the second one, I clamped the two together for the final grinding down so they would match perfectly

rinse and repeat for the other side

made a square section for the top, from leftover bits of the same sheet

made some angles so it would sit nice. Welded it with the shock in place to make sure spacing was right.

final grind down. Just need to drill another hole for the headlight.

decided to position it on the centre line of the cross beam. I still need to finish the box sections at the front of the frame.

stuck on the temp headlight for dramatic effect. I'm pretty happy with the result. Not going to add arty holes on the brackets as it's too much work to make something weaker

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

Nice Dave

A true Scotsman if I ever did see one, to use what is at hand and available

to craft some fine looking pieces well done Dave . I may have I drill press for ya, I'll let you know soon

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

34guy wrote:
Nice Dave
A true Scotsman if I ever did see one, to use what is at hand and available
to craft some fine looking pieces well done Dave . I may have I drill press for ya, I'll let you know soon

Thanks Joe, it was fun, if a bit "dusty" lol.

DB Cooper · ONTARIO

Wow, those look great. Nice work.

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

Dave good work

$110 for pair at Speedway

But the satisfation of making your own

Is worth it..........right?

-- Edited by Cat in the Hat on Saturday 5th of April 2014 11:01:31 PM

flatblack55delivery · PORT HOPE, ONT

Nice work Dave. Ed

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Cat in the Hat wrote:
Dave good work

$110 for pair at Speedway

But the satisfation of making your own

Is worth it..........right?

-- Edited by Cat in the Hat on Saturday 5th of April 2014 11:01:31 PM

wow, I didn't know they cost that much!! lol

but yes, satisfaction I have.

JohnnyBgood · ST CATHARINES, ONT

glad you didnt use the beaver to cut the metal..nice job...

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

Nice job Dave! You'll think back on this day and these brackets when you buy your first Plasma Cutter!!!

69SS454 · MILTON, ONT

Will the drive shaft/yoke hit the crossmember if you jack the body and have the rear end hanging?

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

69SS454 wrote:
Will the drive shaft/yoke hit the crossmember if you jack the body and have the rear end hanging?

lol, are we still on this? biggrin

I edited the pictures to show what was going on. The first picture is the frame jacked way up, and the diff is just resting on the cross member. The first picture with the notch done is with the frame at normal ride height. And the second with the notch is with the frame jacked away up.

Hope that helps

-- Edited by Dave Scott on Sunday 6th of April 2014 10:43:45 AM

MANCAVER · info@mancavestuff.ca

Dave you should clip baseball cards on that yolk so it makes a real cool sound going down the road. biggrin

JohnnyBgood · ST CATHARINES, ONT

MANCAVER wrote:
Dave you should clip baseball cards on that yolk so it makes a real cool sound going down the road.

HAHAHA....TOO COOL....you gotta do it.....

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Got the other shock mount finished today. Will try and get the lower brackets done tonight.

Also decided on the height of the radiator at last

will · WALKERTON, ONT

Coming along real good Dave. Thanks for sharing.