I have a space 8' high, 3' wide and 12' long. I need to assemble a load bearing 2x4 wall 8' high and 12' long. I have no room to assemble and slide in so I am going to try buiiding on my slab outside, disassemble then reassemble in the space.
I can support the lower plate high enough to screw the studs back in order with the tops positioned between the joists above then slip the top plate in and screw to studs.
Is there something I am missing?
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
Hi Henry, I am a carpenter. I understand what you are trying to do. first question is why would this need to be load bearing?
As for building the wall the easiest way would be to put a 2 x 4 on the floor and a 2 x 4 nailed to the ceiling or whatever you have. Then measure and put the studs between the plates. The studs can be toe nailed or nailed on an angle into the plates. I will pm my phone numbers to you if you want to talk this through.
it is to support a floor above. then it will be paneled (or pegboard) and be a wall behind my new woodshop workbench/counter. ( insulating behind it also) I have 500 sq feet of parts in 490 sq ft of room LOL
so no jack posts. besides you can by a lot of lumber for the price of jack posts, are the made of gold?
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
for support, i would still laminate a beam. i think a 3 ply 8 inch with a 2x4 stud wall under it would be ideal. raise the beam and support each end then build the stud wall in place. make sure the crowns are facing up on the three 2x8's.
-- Edited by studeshaker on Saturday 11th of July 2015 06:14:43 AM
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don't walk in like you own the place..........walk in like you hold the mortgage.
If I am picturing this right, I'd install the top and bottom plates, then stud the wall using "sistered" 2x4's (basically you are creating a 4x4 for each stud), gluing the studs to the top and bottom plates with construction adhesive (PL Premium), then toe-nail the studs into place.
Sistering the studs may be overkill, but with such a short wall, the added cost wouldn't be much at all, and you'd end up with a hell of a strong wall (again, if I am picturing correctly what it is you want to do).
Basically, I'm saying what Marten said, just build the wall in place. No need to build it offsite, then build it again (meaning the final install).
It will be load bearing because the plate that supports the floor above has rotted and sunk.(due to idiot previous owner "billy the alcoholic chainsaw wood butcher") I will have to jack the floor and install the wall. Once supported at the correct height I can remove the outside siding and install the new plate and maybe some joists. Then the wall will really only be holding up tools.
Then once that is repaired I can install a new "roof bearing wall" on the floor above and remove the chainsaw installed trapezoid patio door.
This is the same drunk who used drywall screws through the center of aluminum 14/2 to secure it to severed studs after splicing a section of wire with the "twist and masking tape" bodyman's proven method. (drywall screws burned the end of the studs)
The patio doors are the last "home improvement" to fix that he attempted.
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
If this guy was a monkey they would study him......... as the world's dumbest pickled organism.
I found bare live 220V beside the kids sandbox. 220v live hanging from the basement ceiling
He built a 18' brick chimney on sand and then tarred it to the chainsaw cutout of the roof to hold it up. and those are the stories I can repeat.
Too much thinner fumes.....
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
Hi Henry
There is no need to glue anything. Glue on the ends (the part you see with the growth rings) of wood does not bond well. Toe nailing is all you need.
I was told they will pass code if they are only used in applications that do not put them into shear. For example, I was watching them building a new subdivision not far from me, and they were screwing the 2x4 walls together, then nailing in the joists using joist hangers. The walls were in compression, the joist hangers in shear.
Interesting. I learned long ago to be nice to the inspectors and talk to them early in a project. I have had to redo things before to pass inspection and its not fun.
Well I am right a schedule, a year later.....
I removed the old paneling and the loosely nailed to the cinder block wall 2x3s. I was surprised to find there had been only one stream of water that ran down the wall from the above mentioned patio door. The wall is dry and clean. (I used clear packing tape on every seam or joint on or near the door and it stopped the water and the drafts)
So to the original question and answer, I intend to lay the bottom plate on 1/4" x 4" polypropylene strip, in case there is any future mystery water leak.
I intend to drill a few holes in the plate and concrete and secure with hardened nails (smaller holes hoping to seal the nail to avoid and water/dampness from wicking up to the plate.)
This wall will no longer be "load bearing" in the traditional sense but will support tools and or cabinets mount to the face. When I repair the door issues next summer LOL, I can alway jack the joists from below and shim as necessary.
If I toe nail the studs do I need to go completely through the plate(and plastic) or just enough to hold the stud from moving?
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Fords Rule ! If it ain't designed and manufactured in North America it sucks ! I don't do rice, pasta, fish and chips, sauerkraut, Ikea or other third world motor vehicle !
