Project WTF -Rat Rod Coupe- The Build!

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

RE: Project WTF -Rat Rod Coupe- The Build!

dodge38 · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

Great meeting you Dave, car looks even better live, great work with the chop, good to see also someone else working in a small cold garage

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

soooo, today's plan was to line up the rear window, weld it on and grind it down all nicey nice.

But something was just not right, something was bugging me about how the back was lining up, so I just HAD to investigate.

And you know what they say...once you pop.....

I hate when folk just overlap, tak weld, then hide it all with filler. Not only is it $hit, but it's unsafe

as you can see, the top section is out from the bottom section by a good half inch.

Looks like I have a LOT of fabricating to do. Going to sit in the warmth and work it all out.

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

I know where there is probably a half a pick up box!!!

just sayin

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

34guy wrote:
I know where there is probably a half a pick up box!!!
just sayin

aaahahahaha. don't tempt me, lol

hemikev · HAMILTON, ONT

thats alot of cheeze on the whole back half of that car .. whats wrong back there...are you gonna have to recheeze all that Dave.....your got warpage
whats the scoop

hemi43 · ONTARIO

hemikev wrote:
thats alot of cheeze on the whole back half of that car .. whats wrong back there...are you gonna have to recheeze all that Dave.....your got warpage
whats the scoop

The rats in your avatar would love Dave's car !! Hmmmm.... Cheese !! biggrin biggrin

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

I'd stick the doors on it and see if the body should come out to meet them or the roof needs to be narrowed or maybe a little of both! I'm thinking it will be easier to bring the lower section of the body out to match the roof - anyone else?

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Hard to tell whats out . you got the thing flopin around like a fish. you need some fixed points to reference from or as fordy said doors or something to hold it together

-- Edited by slim on Friday 28th of February 2014 06:39:50 PM

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

Or you could do like Hemikev's avatar.
It doesn't have an alignment problem between the body/roof.
TMJ

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

oh it's definitely the bottom that's out.

And I don't have a floppy fish thank you very much.

I'm going to grind all the crap off it and see what's left. I should be able to bring the left rear quarter out to the correct width, then I'll probbaly just get some fresh metal and make a new curved section all round the back and cut a new STRAIGHT window hole..

It's a patchwork quilt back there, so anything I do will be an improvement.

Just wish it would warm up a little

hemikev · HAMILTON, ONT

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
I'd stick the doors on it and see if the body should come out to meet them or the roof needs to be narrowed or maybe a little of both! I'm thinking it will be easier to bring the lower section of the body out to match the roof - anyone else?

Gotta agree with fordy here ,,, doors back on ,get your gap ,, temp weld in place , work from there ... just me though

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

ok folks, I really should step in here and ask, who of you have seen it "in real life"?

The last couple of pictures I posted are strangely distorted, so trust me, it's really not as long at the front "in real life" lol.

The other thing you need to remember is the wheels in the vision are totally different from what I have at the moment. I'll have less wheel and more tire. And, the cabin can come forward a bit if I wish. Oh, and the engine is way out of proportion. It's all very fluid at the moment.

But hey, for a ten minute photoshop I cobbled together, I think I'm getting pretty close.

I welcome ANYONE and EVERYONE (not all at the same time of course) to drop by for a coffee and have a look "in real life" lol, then decide what you really think. Just PM me for my address, I'm here all the time

I have a new plan for the back of the car, just picked up some bits from Glenn today

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

I went to visit dave and I didn't get a coffee!!!

car is fine, you guy's have no vision

What bits did you get from Glen , is it what I think

it may be??

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

He caught me at a weak moment Joe

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

34guy wrote:
I went to visit dave and I didn't get a coffee!!!
car is fine, you guy's have no vision
What bits did you get from Glen , is it what I think
it may be??

Hey, maybe if I got a SEAT, you would have got a coffee!

and no, it's not what you're thinking Joe

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

I have been silent long enough....

1st...a rendering is just that....a rough draft of a final product.....changes are often made on the fly as the build goes on

2nd...when Dave came over we discussed many different front ends...he decided that he liked the "suicide front end" opposed to the traditional

3rd....the way the car is....would not suit a short wheel base

4th...its HIS CAR....for shzits sake.....he is generous enough to let you see his build.....LET HIM BUILD IT.

Everybody has an opinion (like azzholes...no 2 alike).....but offer encouragement to him....dont trash him because "His car doesnt look like the picture" or worse....your idea of what it should look like.

I know he is becoming "frustrated" with all the armchair quarterbacks....I'd do this...I'd do that.....well then....GET ONE AND SHOW HIM!

OR BETTER YET>>>GET OFF YOUR AZZ AND COME DOWN AND HELP HIM<<<<<<<<

Wow....this is a hard crowd.....POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT....goes a lot further than NEGATIVE COMMENTS

I wouldnt blame him from stopping the posts or worst...deleting the build thread!

This is his FIRST BUILD....he is doing his best and asking for help.....HELP HIM....if you cant help him.....enjoy the pictures....if you dont like the picutres then

A.....dont look at them

B...... keep your comments to yourself.........and ......" S D F U "

-- Edited by Cat in the Hat on Monday 3rd of March 2014 10:18:37 AM

123pugsy · MARKHAM, ONT

Cat in the Hat wrote:
I have been silent long enough....

1st...a rendering is just that....a rough draft of a final product.....changes are often made on the fly as the build goes on

2nd...when Dave came over we discussed many different front ends...he decided that he liked the "suicide front end" opposed to the traditional

3rd....the way the car is....would not suit a short wheel base

4th...its HIS CAR....for shzits sake.....he is generous enough to let you see his build.....LET HIM BUILD IT.

Everybody has an opinion (like azzholes...no 2 alike).....but offer encouragement to him....dont trash him because "His car doesnt look like the picture" or worse....your idea of what it should look like.

I know he is becoming "frustrated" with all the armchair quarterbacks....I'd do this...I'd do that.....well then....GET ONE AND SHOW HIM!

Wow....this is a hard crowd.....POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT....goes a lot further than NEGATIVE COMMENTS

I wouldnt blame him from stopping the posts or worst...deleting the build thread!

This is his FIRST BUILD....he is doing his best and asking for help.....HELP HIM....if you cant help him.....enjoy the pictures....if you dont like the picutres then

A.....dont look at them

B...... keep your comments to yourself.........and ......" S D F U "

Well said Grumps.

Thanks.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

aside from all the drama queens we have here, people have made alot less with alot more. i think the body on your car is an excellent way to start a project, you dont have to worry much about making it worse as you have lots to make right. at least you will know what you have in the end and it will be what you want in a car. better to find these problems now instead of much later when you are more commited. i admit i wussed out somewhat when i used an arizona cab on my truck but it saved me alot of repair work on the body. i think my next rat rod will be a four door something made into a truck cab. i would prefer a chevy of course

hemi43 · ONTARIO

I think Dave should paint it "swift red" with a "coke red" racing stripe.

toomuchjunk · S/W ONTARIO

Dave
You said something about a seat, what kind of seat/seats are you looking for?
I have a minivan rear bench. If you are interested in it I can measure it up.
It is from a oddball, its kind of squared off, different then most.
It's your favorite price.
TMJ

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

see bucket list #2 being answered " you just may get a seat" LMFAO

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

toomuchjunk wrote:
Dave
You said something about a seat, what kind of seat/seats are you looking for?
I have a minivan rear bench. If you are interested in it I can measure it up.
It is from a oddball, its kind of squared off, different then most.
It's your favorite price.
TMJ

Thanks TMJ. I would have to cut a rather large notch out of it for the tranny tunnel because the body will be so low.

Let me get some interior work done first, I might need to widen the whole cab to get ANY seat to fit, lol.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

hemi43 wrote:
I think Dave should paint it "swift red" with a "coke red" racing stripe.

I don't know what that means, but knowing you it's something rude.

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

Dave Scott wrote:
toomuchjunk wrote:
Dave
You said something about a seat, what kind of seat/seats are you looking for?
I have a minivan rear bench. If you are interested in it I can measure it up.
It is from a oddball, its kind of squared off, different then most.
It's your favorite price.
TMJ
Thanks TMJ. I would have to cut a rather large notch out of it for the tranny tunnel because the body will be so low.
Let me get some interior work done first, I might need to widen the whole cab to get ANY seat to fit, lol.

I know where you could get a couple of buckets

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

34guy wrote:
Dave Scott wrote:
toomuchjunk wrote:
Dave
You said something about a seat, what kind of seat/seats are you looking for?
I have a minivan rear bench. If you are interested in it I can measure it up.
It is from a oddball, its kind of squared off, different then most.
It's your favorite price.
TMJ
Thanks TMJ. I would have to cut a rather large notch out of it for the tranny tunnel because the body will be so low.
Let me get some interior work done first, I might need to widen the whole cab to get ANY seat to fit, lol.
I know where you could get a couple of buckets

Four legs in the air Joe

Fordy Acres Car Farm · DORCHESTER, ONT

Dave Scott wrote:
34guy wrote:
Dave Scott wrote:
toomuchjunk wrote:
Dave
You said something about a seat, what kind of seat/seats are you looking for?
I have a minivan rear bench. If you are interested in it I can measure it up.
It is from a oddball, its kind of squared off, different then most.
It's your favorite price.
TMJ
Thanks TMJ. I would have to cut a rather large notch out of it for the tranny tunnel because the body will be so low.
Let me get some interior work done first, I might need to widen the whole cab to get ANY seat to fit, lol.
I know where you could get a couple of buckets
Four legs in the air Joe

Huh? confuse Are you trying to get Joe to rub yer belly? hmm

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Fordy Acres Car Farm wrote:
Four legs in the air Joe
Huh? Are you trying to get Joe to rub yer belly?

as in "the joke's dead"

Cat in the Hat · BRANTFORD, ONT

See what i mean?

ESL DAVE........ ESL!

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Ok folks, don't get too excited, only a very small update, BUT FIRST!.....

I need to address the recent outburst by my overprotective adopted big brother Glenn, lol

Glenn has built me an awesome frame, I couldn't be happier. I wanted something long and low, and that's what I got.

Now, it does look a little longer than the picture I first posted, however, if I decide I want it exactly like the picture there are ways I can bring the front wheels further back without having to chop the frame.

The last thing I want is for people to feel they cannot offer advice or suggestions to my build. Please let normal service resume.

Ok, as I might have mentioned in a previous post, I need to tilt the I Beam back a little as it is currently sitting straight, almost leaning forward. The easiest way to do this is to cut a notch out of the front suspension beams (someone needs to tell me what they are actually called)

If I cut a notch forward of my spring brackets, it won't disturb anything, so that's what I'm doing..

If anyone is horrified by this, please tell me why it might be a bad idea, lol.

I'm going to do the other side tomorrow to match this one exactly, or as exactly as a bloke in a garage can be

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Have to admit I was horrified for a second until I seen what you did . I don't see it being a problem

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

Went back and looked again at the picture Im sure you have the arm upside down . fat side to the top . according to the un split 40 bones i have here

Not sure if it matters now but i think if you would of flipped them the angle would of corrected itself

-- Edited by slim on Wednesday 5th of March 2014 11:31:36 PM

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

slim wrote:
Went back and looked again at the picture Im sure you have the arm upside down . fat side to the top . according to the un split 40 bones i have here

Not sure if it matters now but i think if you would of flipped them the angle would of corrected itself

-- Edited by slim on Wednesday 5th of March 2014 11:31:36 PM

LOL, that did occur to us when we were setting it all up, but it made no difference to the angle.

I did a search, found these

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

they are 33-34 arms I have a set of them too both top and bottom are the same thickness . Id have to look but I think yours are 40s with the forward spring perch cut off . the top would of been heaver to support the spring assemble that hung off the front of it. Your right once you split the bones the angle is going to end up wear you mount it as I said I dont think its a big deal at this stage

-- Edited by slim on Thursday 6th of March 2014 12:25:42 AM

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

stolen from the hamb

To Illustrate this point this might help,... (still feeling the effects of the Meds,...)

The top wishbone is a Model A,.. There was a very low mounting position for it from the factory,.. so you can see there is practically no compensation for caster.

Second from the top is 1932-1933/34 you can see there is caster built in,...

1935-40 and then 1941-48 Same deal.

__________________
A sinner saved by Grace. (Eph. 2:8-9)

H.A.M.B. Chapel

..........................................................................................................................................

sorry the other set I have are 33/34

un messed with 40 with the spring perch

http://lonestarbodyshop.blogspot.com/2012/03/early-ford-wishbones.html

-- Edited by slim on Thursday 6th of March 2014 12:16:56 AM

-- Edited by slim on Thursday 6th of March 2014 12:22:18 AM

123pugsy · MARKHAM, ONT

Dave Scott wrote:
Ok folks, don't get too excited, only a very small update, BUT FIRST!.....
I need to address the recent outburst by my overprotective adopted big brother Glenn, lol

Glenn has built me an awesome frame, I couldn't be happier. I wanted something long and low, and that's what I got.
Now, it does look a little longer than the picture I first posted, however, if I decide I want it exactly like the picture there are ways I can bring the front wheels further back without having to chop the frame.
The last thing I want is for people to feel they cannot offer advice or suggestions to my build. Please let normal service resume.

Ok, as I might have mentioned in a previous post, I need to tilt the I Beam back a little as it is currently sitting straight, almost leaning forward. The easiest way to do this is to cut a notch out of the front suspension beams (someone needs to tell me what they are actually called)
If I cut a notch forward of my spring brackets, it won't disturb anything, so that's what I'm doing..

If anyone is horrified by this, please tell me why it might be a bad idea, lol.

I'm going to do the other side tomorrow to match this one exactly, or as exactly as a bloke in a garage can be

I am horrified by this.

I didn't see a full chamfer on each side before welding in any of your pics.

fatstax · COBOURG, ONT

you might have wanted to have tig welded that at the least, as it is a supporting part of the suspension.

hemi43 · ONTARIO

X2 on the chamfer !! 7018 would have been my choice.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

hemi43 wrote:
X2 on the chamfer !! 7018 would have been my choice.

I think the green bastard got one up on you this time . smile .probably what they used originally. No big deal grind it back to the root and reweld it .

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

I know what's happened here...

The ends of the bars have opened way up, so when we put them on the I-Beam, they weren't doing what they are supposed to. In fact, I have a feeling they are not the correct arms for this beam.

I am going to cobble them together for now, but I'll be keeping my eyes peeled at swap meets for new bars.

slim · DUNDAS, ONT

If the opening is 2 1/4" they are 37 to 40 arms If your axle is 2" its earlier. Weld a 1/4 spacer top or bottom inside and be done with it. As long as the axle lays back somewhere around 7 degrees your good ford spec was between 41/2 and 9

Bruce Rossiter · TORONTO, ONT

Dave Scott wrote:
I know what's happened here...

The ends of the bars have opened way up, so when we put them on the I-Beam, they weren't doing what they are supposed to. In fact, I have a feeling they are not the correct arms for this beam.

I am going to cobble them together for now, but I'll be keeping my eyes peeled at swap meets for new bars.

Ford axles come in different thicknesses and possibly you might be matching up a different year radius rod with the axle you have.

Here's a link that will give you the size of the radius rod span.

http://www.hotrodreference.com/1342/early-ford-front-wishboneradius-rod-dimensions/

34guy · MISSISSAUGA, ONT

Why wait for the market's , Go shopping at Slim's

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Bruce Rossiter wrote:
Dave Scott wrote:
I know what's happened here...

The ends of the bars have opened way up, so when we put them on the I-Beam, they weren't doing what they are supposed to. In fact, I have a feeling they are not the correct arms for this beam.

I am going to cobble them together for now, but I'll be keeping my eyes peeled at swap meets for new bars.
Ford axles come in different thicknesses and possibly you might be matching up a different year radius rod with the axle you have.
Here's a link that will give you the size of the radius rod span.
http://www.hotrodreference.com/1342/early-ford-front-wishboneradius-rod-dimensions/

Thanks Bruce. I'll go grab a tape measure.

2 1/2 by 38 1/2, so definitely a 1938 to 1940 I Beam.

-- Edited by Dave Scott on Thursday 6th of March 2014 03:12:39 PM

JohnnyBgood · ST CATHARINES, ONT

Now THIS is getting very interesting...you got balls Dave...nip and tuck....this is great.....

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

Spent the afternoon sorting out these Radius Rods

I truned the welder heat way up and the feed speed up a bit, so I'm happy with the joins. Good penetration

I can always change the front axle assembly down the line if I'm really not happy, but for now it will do.

I have a nice angle, and my perch bolts fit nice and snug. I had to bend and grind the clevices so they look great now.

I also moved the rad back and inch and tilted it very slightly, so I have room for a grille now

janies dirty 37 · SOUTH RIVER, ONT

Well done Dave.Good pics as well.

Santos L Halper · GTA

If you are still a bit "iffy" on the structural integrity of your welds where you pie cut the wishbone, you could remove the leaf spring support tabs/brackets (that are presently welded to the wishbones behind the splice) and redesign them so that some of the new tab/bracket covers some of your splice weld. Basically your newly designed (larger where it meets the wishbone) leaf spring support would act as a gusset.

Along those same lines, you could remove the leaf spring tabs from the wishbones and move them closer to the axle/directly under the wishbone weld. This would serve two purposes, first the new tabs would gusset the welds and it would also move the axle closer to the frame, which would result in shortening the wheelbase a little bit. This would mean the relocation of the frame mounts for the split wishbones and possibly the shortening of those "frame horns" that overhang the leaf spring.

If none of this appeals to you, it might be wise to (read that "I would") add a little gusset to the leaf spring tabs themselves for a bit of extra strength/insurance.

Disclaimer: What I have presented here is nothing more than MY opinion/suggestion on possible alterations, basing them entirely on the pictures provided. My opinion may differ from other peoples. I am offering this opinion to Dave Scott for HIS consideration. ANY comments/angry PM's (that should probably read "more angry PM's") my opinion generates from CatinHat will be instantaneously and completely ignored evileye biggrin .

RacerRick · TORONTO, ONT

How Dave pie cut and rewelded the bones is pretty common, but x3 on the lack of a V-notch for welding. Is your welder a 110v or 220v model? A 110v model won't have the suds for penetration, but a high amp 220v model should have plenty of penetration.

Dave Scott · ANCASTER, ONT

I have a brand new 220 Lincoln

I love it.

I was already thinking along those lines Santos, but I first wanted to get that angle before I changed the length.

The max I can bring it back is about 2 inches before the I Beam would interfere with the spring perch. I don't really want to do any more on the front until I get the correct wheels and tires.